Monday, 25 June 2018

Monday 25th June: Central St Martins degree show TWO / NOVA Awards = BA Fashion Knitwear













Over the last few days of the Central Saint Martin's graduate shows, I have been profiling the students selected for their innovation as part of the MullenLowe Group NOVA awards.  The initiative is now in its eighth year having been set up to credit these exceptional students for their ingenuity.  The title "NOVA" denoting INNOVATION.  Here is Paolina Russo from BA Fashion Knitwear who is one of the final shortlist of 14 designers from the 1,300 graduating students!  It's clear to see why she has made it into this prestigious scheme for recognition to exceptional quality of work and vision.
I have been talking to one of the judges who described Paolina's work as "Ala├»a on Acid" for her trippy lenticular knits.  You can see in the sample she is holding (above) how she has created an optical illusion within the channels of her textile design.  In addition to these precision techniques from her knitwear specialism she also used crochet to meticulously piece together sneakers to construct patchwork garments.  Look at the detail of this bodice where she has tessellated the leather uppers and hand-sewn them in place before then fusing them with her multicolour crochet stitch-work.  The exhibition gave me the chance to look at these finishings with close inspection to really appreciate the time and craft that has gone into each element.  
Her final collection ‘A Love Letter to My Hometown’ was born from her teenage boredom in the suburbs. However, her hopes and dreams have been realised since an apprenticeship at Margiela and shadowing stylists from the industry.  This was evident in the clear and unique aesthetic of her art-direction from the shoot of her look-book to the live presentations. I was lucky enough to see the runway show and witness the lenticular knits in action.  I'll be uploading those clips to Instagram so head over there to see the full glory of the magic in the material.  Also keep an eye on my Instagram stories during the week where I'll be sharing clips from the work of all fourteen finalists for you to then vote for your favourite.  You have a week to cast you vote - final day to have your say is next Monday 2nd July.

Sunday, 24 June 2018

Sunday 24th June: Central St Martins degree show TWO / NOVA Awards = BA Fashion Print







It's the final day to see Central St Martins graduate shows including Harry Henley-Freegard from Fashion Print with his project ‘The Art of Dying’.  Since an epiphany at Highgate cemetery, his concept has been to kill himself off as the ultimate sustainable sacrifice.  He has safety-pinned his collection from serendipitous salvaged socks to inject satirical fun into the fashion world.   See his memorial plates and self-help books on display in Show TWO today. 
Harry has been selected for his innovation in the MullenLowe Group NOVA Awards.  Check back tomorrow for details of how you can vote for your favourite in the final fourteen selected students to win at the award ceremony on July 5th.

Sunday 24th June: Central St Martins degree show TWO / NOVA Awards = BA Ceramic Design






Simon Kidd revisited his home of Northern Ireland for his final collection in BA Ceramics at Central St Martins.  He wanted to use materials from the Mourne Mountains to heal wounds from past conflicts.  The process of his project not only collected materials and tools from the quarries but also used the turf to fuel the saggar kiln.  To tie the whole thing together, he then collected the ash from his purpose-built furnace to incorporate into the glaze of his porcelain plates.  Plaster models were cut using a replica of the traditional Slean tool traditionally used to dig turf - you can see a rare original hanging here in his display.  From start to finish each beaker and bowl was born from the granite terrain of Sliabh Donairt and bogs of Dregish.  

Along with the other artists I am featuring, Simon has been selected for his innovation in the Mullenlowe Group NOVA Awards.  See them all in the Central St. Martins degree show TWO today, Sunday 24th at 1 Granary Square, King’s Cross, N1C 4AA.    

Saturday 23rd June: Central St Martins degree show TWO / NOVA Awards = BA Jewellery Design






Shengyi Chen's final collection from BA Jewellery Design at Central St Martins is satirically based on all platforms of social media.  See above him wearing the Twitter bird pendant strung with its beak bound shut in silence.  His link chain is a fetter from Facebook idents.    The Chinese Yuan necklace comes complete with price tag "Made In China".  The religious cross necklace formed in the shape of the Facebook monogram with engraving "Make America Great Again". 
Just like the other artists I am featuring here, Shengyi has been selected for his innovation in the Mullenlowe Group NOVA Awards.  See them all in the Central St. Martins degree show TWO this weekend at 1 Granary Square, King’s Cross, N1C 4AA.  Final day today, Sunday 24th.