Monday, 22 February 2016

Monday 22nd February: LFW AW16 Claire Barrow














I really enjoyed Claire Barrow's take on the Fashion Week formula.   Her presentation was like a satirical pseudo-retrospective exhibition as commentary on the current state of the industry churning over and mis-referencing inspirations.  With a manifesto penned by Reba Maybury outlining this preoccupation it resonated with my recent thoughts that there isn't really any definable style for "our time" because everything is so scattered and washed out. 
Going against the grain of digital technology and technique, Claire got out her brushes and used the giant frames of Elms Elsters Painting rooms to freestyle over 15 foot canvases as her cloth.  Here you can see details of the dresses that she made from this textile named "Dawn Of Man" and "Sphinx".   These fine-art show-pieces were interspersed with a printed and embroidered collaboration with British luxury knitwear brand John Smedley.   Each look had its own label like a museum piece with details of when it was made, materials and title.  So good!
I'm so pleased that LFW still has a nugget of something fun and fresh with this nod to the nostalgia worm-hole that everyone else is getting sucked in to and letting slide.  



Monday 22nd Feb: LFW AW16 Zandra Rhodes















The backing cloth from the screen-printing tables of Zandra Rhodes studio were used as the set design for her presentation at the ICA Gallery.  All the layers of ink and shapes tesselated over time, were a beautiful backdrop to her new AW16 collection of brocade silk fabrics.  Her signature metallic swirls are now across suits using "Songket" to complement her soft sheer silhouettes.  The "Shimmer & Shine" collaboration with Kraftangan uses this Malaysian textile technique to revive the tradition and bring it to a new market.  Songket, also originally worn as head ties and headdresses in Malay ceremonies,  has now been reimagined and reworked into Turbans by Piers Atkinson.  Jewellry came from Lara Bohinc, glasses by Kitty Joseph and shoes from Nicholas Kirkwood to complete the nostalgic "Global Nomad" vibe with models dancing around the museum gallery setting.  Soundtracked by The Broken Hearts, this was the perfect Saturday night 70's style salon soiree for fashion week, thank you Dame Zandra. 

Sunday, 21 February 2016

Sunday 21st February: LFW AW16 Peter Jensen's PEGGY












Peter Jensen's AW16 collection "PEGGY" styled with with Converse feet, Isamaya Ffrench's lips and a jewellery collaboration with Becca Hulbert.

Saturday, 20 February 2016

Sat 20th Feb: LFW AW16 Sadie Williams "Off-Piste"








Sadie Williams presentation at The ICA "Off-Piste" was a homage to her parent's ski holidays of the 1970's.  Padding reminiscent of salopettes and motor racing striped jumpers were accessorised with Timberland boots that had frozen icicle laces.  The slalom set design by Jo Bond had a marble pattern painted piste by Safia El Dabi.  My favourite piece was this pair of silver patchwork leather ski pants!

Friday, 19 February 2016

Friday 19th Feb: LFW - London College Of Fashion MA Womenswear





London College Of Fashion MA Womenswear held at The Royal College of Surgeons inc. Desiree Slabik, Kirimi Yun and Zhixian Wang.  See all designers here.