Saturday, 25 September 2010
Sat 25th Sept: Michael Van Der Ham in macro
Not content with pattern cutting inconceivably complex masterpieces, Michael Van Der Ham has shifted up a gear this season by creating his own fabrics. Having previously delved into the depths of Liberty's florals, Michael has now developed his very own detailed devore. The textural sheers, bleached jerseys and subtle metallics are the result of experimental mark making from brushes and inks, then exposed onto screens and tessellated with this magic process. Shiaparelli style swooshes spill over pleats of Grecian gathered folds and tuck neatly into dissecting seams. These flowing gowns which lick the female form with flattering grace swished down the runway amidst looks of sexy silk trousers that perfectly cupped the bum and cut into the tail bone with a wide waistband. So it seems that Van Der Ham doesn't just know how to sew a dress that can be thrown on and transform a figure but has now turned his hand to killer pants. The loose wide leg trousers opened to a hem finished off with neat heels by Nicholas Kirkwood from the velvet that is scattered across the patterned sheers. (Sheer was a strong story across LFW but who else had taken time to dismiss mills and conceive their own!?............flesh peeped thru revealing gaps in this arranged abstract 3D print). It appears to me that Michael has managed to jump ahead 3 seasons but still maintain his unwavering covetable care for piecing together colour and cut. I think the future is most certainly in his hands and I'm desperate to see which house snaps him up..............
To read Tim Blanks review and see full runway shots, click here