Sunday, 25 September 2011

Sun 25th Sept: London Fashion Week - Noel Stewart








One day I really hope that Noel Stewart publishes a coffee table book of the history of his own photos of his hats backstage of the international runway shows. Not only are they the most divine creations but the way he captures them is equally lush. Each season I do a post of my own edit from his facebook photo albums (with permission!) and its one of the highlights I look forward to sharing. Here we have 2 photos from behind the scenes at Roksanda Ilincic, Erdem and Jaeger - what a dream to contribute to that pink look on Charlotte Free! Congratulations Noel on another prolific LFW.......... but no stopping yet, he's probably onto the next project for Paris Fashion Week as I type........ he'll be pinning and blocking some more priceless pieces.

Saturday, 24 September 2011

Sat 24th Sept: LFW - Menswear Day - AGI & SAM











Since discovering AGI & SAM last year, they are my absolute favourite installation to make a bee line for now - always exquisite colour and unapologetic fun - fantastic. This season did not disappoint and in fact bowled me over. I want the whole lot, and I'm not even a lad. The collection entitled "Tobasco, Tequila and Tomato Juice" is a fusion of (what I'm guessing) Vincent Van Gough brush strokes, Mexican wrestlers and woven textiles, basketry and mosaic Trompe-l'œil with a splash of dip dye digital rainbow. All in all, not too far removed from my own influences this season, especially the makeup by Thom Ticklemouse with the models hands flecked in paint which is what my hands have looked like from painting my fabrics this summer. The artist's "world" was reflected in the set by Luke Abby with broken pots in the same hue as the collection and name constructed from sticks on the fire place. Apparently the grand plan was to fill the sun drenched room with marigolds but health and safety stopped this pollinating plot in its tracks - something worth remembering when you visit LFW at Somerset House as many concepts are squashed with this frustrating constraint.
As I wrote in my report for The Daily, I was so impressed with the pattern continuation from pant to shoe, and the range of footwear is sublime. This is a stunning and sophisticated shift up a gear from last season's equally uplifting selection of suits and a sure fire indication of direction the duo's brand is going ........ up, up and away......... what I would really like now, is to see a whole lemon yellow look and straw fedora on David Byrne.

Sat 24th Sept: LFW - Menswear Day









Its my favourite day of the week in the S/S season because invariably the sun breaks out to enlighten Somerset House and most people are floating about free from finishing their own collections. The vibe is very relaxed and everyone is hyped to finally be hanging out and catching up. Of course the third element of intrigue is the wealth of ridiculously beautiful boys holed up in one place at one time - with the ratio of straight single women and gay eagle eyed men at fashion week makes this an undeniable appreciative audience............... the champagne flows ............. and the gent's garms on display are the real treat! Here is a selection from Astrid Anderson, William Richard Green, Carri Cassette Playa, Aaron Frew infront of the film of NOKI's show he modelled in, and A Child of the Jago who showed off site at the world's oldest music hall which was a stunning and beautiful location to lure us all to, with the cherry on the cake of Dame Vivienne Westwood sat on the front row.

Sat 24th Sept: What The Butler Saw - The Daily




Whilst down at Somerset House for London Fashion Week I was blogging for the website of The Daily, winging over a snap of my favourite accessory of the day. I complimented each image with an anecdote to explain my choice and more often than not a little history to the piece. Head over to the paper's site to see what I else I discovered in addition to these Ferragamo rainbow platforms and Barbara Grispini's Christopher Kane wares............. here.

Thursday, 22 September 2011

Thurs 22nd Sep: Michael Van Der Ham ss 2012 by Emily Beard





Michael Van Der Ham's spring/summer 2012 collection was inspired by the photographs of Joseph Szabo, designing for the women in his pictures.
Another inspiration was a collage effect of vintage prints, referencing an eclectic mix of brush strokes, feathers, confetti and geometrics. The resulting prints adorned a mix of sheer and lightweight fabrics to create interesting silhouettes in rich turquoise and purple hues.
After gaining many fans with a capsule collection for Topshop, it seems Van Der Ham also has a fan in Anna Dello Russo, who graced the front row.

Sunday, 18 September 2011

Sun 18th Sep: Backstage at Fred Butler ss 2012 by Emily Beard








Ever wondered what goes down moments before a show begins? In the case of Fred, there were some last minute stitching tweaks, cameras flashing/filming at every opportunity, and stylist Kim Howells giving the girls a final look over before they entered the presentation room.

The film released to coincide with the collection is now viewable exclusively over at Style Bubble.

Saturday, 17 September 2011

Sat 17th Sep: Craig Lawrence s/s 2012





Sat 17th Sep: Spring Summer 2012 preview on Style Bubble by Emily Beard



Want a sneak peek at Fred's Spring Summer 2012 collection before the presentation on Sunday? Hot foot it over to
Style Bubble, where Susie gives her verdict on the upcoming pieces...

(Photo of Rosy Nicholas shoes in collaboration for the collection.............)

Sat 17th Sep: Hedonism at London Fashion Week by Emily Beard




Piers Atkinson


Noel Stewart



J Smith Esq





Charlie Le Mindu


Hedonism made it's return to London this fashion week, featuring stellar pieces by Piers Atkinson, Charlie Le Mindu, J Smith Esq and Noel Stewart. Currently viewable till the end of Fashion week in the East Wing of Somerset House.

Tuesday, 13 September 2011

Tues 13th Sept: Sigur Rós "Inni"


SIGUR RÓS - INNI from Sigur Rós on Vimeo.


Klippa from Sigur Rós on Vimeo.



The crown which I made for Orri (drummer with Sigur Rós) has been captured in a film of the tour recorded a few years ago. Following on from this, a new film has been conjured up inwhich the crown makes a second special appearance in the story! See the site for details of screenings.......

Sunday, 11 September 2011

Sun 11th Sept: Colour Me Crazy



Here is my part in a feature on colour "Colour Me Crazy" in yesterday's Telegraph Magazine Fashion special "Four fashion obsessives talk to Sophie de Rosee about their rainbow wardrobes, and about the designers who are on their wavelength." for which I was interviewed alongside Susie Bubble, Louise Gray and Gloria Baume. It was great fun to wear this heavenly cashmere Yang Du dress for the day! I wish i had been able to keep it and add it to my cosmic closet!

" FRED BUTLER , 31, has a radical approach to getting dressed each morning. The London-based jewellery, props and accessories designer wakes up and 'feels' a colour. She then heads to that section of her colour-coded wardrobe and dresses head to toe in that hue, including underwear, socks and shoes. 'Colour is the first thing I think about when I wake up. It's not a forced decision. There's no logical pattern, it's not seasonal, it's just a feeling I have. Sometimes the colour doesn't come and I have to sit in my dressing-gown and wait for it, which is annoying if I have to be somewhere.'

It all started when she was 17. 'I always liked having matching bag and shoes, but it evolved into just one colour, either pink or blue, and then I started collecting all the other colours. Purple is the most recent addition, three years ago. I always hated it because of the vibration it gave off but then I was given a purple jacket and now I'm into it.' Green has been phased out recently, and Butler rarely wears black. She is starting to collect coral and would like to try spots, stripes and more neon colours.
The rails and drawers in Butler's wardrobe are colour-coded right down to the hangers and contain about 200 items of clothing in white, yellow, orange, red, pink, purple, blue, green, gold and silver, with a few multi­coloured pieces. Many designs are her own, and labels are mostly obscure including Threeasfour, Scott Ramsay Kyle and Alistair Carr (before he was employed by Pringle). She admires the work of Hussein Chalayan, Viktor & Rolf, David Koma and Louise Gray.
Butler describes her style as timeless. She has all her clothes from when she was a teenager (including her mid-1990s yellow Buffalo platform boots), and she never tests out trends, although she follows them by reading magazines. Her collection of clothes increases through gifts from friends and fellow designers. She shops in only one vintage store, 21st Century Retro in Holloway Road, north London, spending less than £100 per month.
Travelling is problematic for Butler, because she can fit only two colours into her suitcase and by the end of the holiday she starts to get grumpy. During her teenage years in Essex people teased her because of her colourful outfits, which she admits was really difficult. Now she is a style-maker with Lady Gaga on her client list.
Butler says that she cannot imagine dressing any other way. 'I simply don't understand how anyone can just follow trends and not find their own indiv­idual style. Most people wear jeans, and it's such a wasted opportunity. People choose what kind of music they listen to so why don't they do that with their clothes? It's like everyone only buying and listening to U2. "

Photo: Rebecca Miller
Purple cashmere jumper dress, £908, by Yang Du ( yangdu-duyang.com )