Thursday, 24 February 2011

Thurs 24th Feb: NOKI NOIR vs. Judy Blame AW11







Leading on from the previous two menswear collections inspired by 80's and 90's pop culture to this collection with a collaboration from an original artist of that time. JJ Hudson has teamed up with his best friend - the legendary stylist / creative Judy Blame for his magic touch to the new line NOKI NOIR - POUR DANDY / POUR DANDYETTA AW11. Here is Judy tweaking the trinkets and tassels he has assembled from sustainable sources specially to compliment JJ's new direction. Its a match perfectly made as Judy's iconic piecing of remnant jewels in his own accessories fits exactly to JJ's ethical stance. Est voila - two peas in a pod in personality as the two gentlemen get on so fantastically and its a ying & yang cohesive coming together of minds in work. To find out how to get your magpie mitts on the neclaces, fobs and keyrings - look here.

"Dandy Dudley razor bones x
This cap features the new gold metal button stud..
New era caps sustsinablly donated from ex press stock.. "

Thurs 24th Feb: Agi & Sam AW11






Nevermind the awesome facepaint on the models for "Most Young Kings Get Their Heads Cut Off", the other experimental colour gimmick that had me reeled in, hook-line and sinker was the bait of the 3D digital print. Primary colour shapes were intermixed with camouflage intricate pattern that popped out in 3D with use of glasses left on the model's plinths. Brilliant! This is what I love - fashion that is fun and interactive! I also like any nod to the nineties on a Fresh Prince tip and 80's dip into the the graffiti of Basquait with his signature scrawls and crown appearing across pants. Check out the previous two collections from the duo that aren't afraid to plant colour in the realm of garms for guys here. Having met whilst working at McQueen, the duo's CV of commissions is quite incredible for a young brand, including Karl Lagerfeld, Armand Basi, Carolyn Massey, Blaak Homme and J.W Anderson. Find out more about the process of their digital print over at FASHION 156 ........

Thurs 24th Feb: Astrid Anderson AW11







Bring on the boys! After the week of womenswear it came to the final day and my personal favourite - men's day. Lots of hot bods breezing around the corridors of Somerset House and some nice clothes of note too! So here is the first off the block in the sportswear category and casting of boys that I wouldn't mind finding myself in a rugby tackle with! ; )
Astrid Andersen is Royal College alumni hailing from Denmark and drawing inspiration for her first season with Fashion East Menswear from Spike Lee's "Do The Right Thing". Well it looks like shes's doing the right thing to me - I love this oversize satin lime green hoody! Her brand of sophisticated streetwear with unspoken humorous sartorial suggestion, was first styled by Simon Foxton for her graduate collection in 2010. Astrid's new "Nothing But Net" cropped tank top looks are sure to be cropping up in the next round of men's editorial........ its big, its bold and its boom!

Thurs 24th Feb: My Style (Fred Butler Style - literally)





This is how my bedroom looks after Fashion Week and the accumulation of outfits that end up in piles of clothes across the floor as if Ive self combusted each night. Here is how I look in the day - in this instance its a mix of old and new pieces explained in this clip. (The one thing I fail to mention is the circle bag I always don from my friends threeASFOUR - which they have just reproduced for the Opening Ceremony vs. Tron collection here)

Portrait by The Style Scout

Thurs 24th Feb: Alex Noble










The definitive couture collection of London Fashion Week crept onto the schedule for the first time with a presentation at The Crypt, St Martins In The Field. Alex Noble's entirely hand sewn mesh, lace, sequin, silk and crystal encrusted dresses hung like museum artefacts as unearthed treasures from an archaeological dig. The specimens from an interplanetary dimension were styled by Anna Trevelyan in an installation to display details of the anatomical direction. Alex's particular illustrative sensibility akin to Hans Bellmar skeletal and sinister style was translated from the mark-making of his canvases to encase the body with embroidered embellishment. All the strings to his ridiculously talented bow were brought together for his debut collection in sympathetic set design, working with Hannah Holland on an eery soundtrack to fill the space. Collaborators on the display included Anna Bruder, Adam Vergette, James Firman and shoes by Claire Davis........... all artists Alex has previously curated shows with during his residency at the Superstore Gallery. Now Alex has side-stepped his various avenues of creative commitments, the next 6 months are going to be a crucial development in his couture career........ WATCH THIS SPACE!!!!

Thurs 24th Feb: Fred ♥ Yu Masui




On the subject of my Fashion Heroes - here is one. A highlight of any season is spotting Yu each day to see his unrivalled and refreshing looks. I ♥ Yu and Yu ♥ ............. find out on his blog here.

Thurs 24th Feb: David Koma A/W11








I'm forever a fan of David Koma and having sat down to scan the press release before the show began, I was full with excitable expectation. Noted inspirations read like a list of my favourite fashion heroes - Japanese dot artist Yayoi Kusama and body distortion entity Leigh Bowery. David fused these references together in layers of laser cut optical circles in seams that twisted and jutted in tight tailoring. Polka-dot prints became three-dimensional at precise anatomical points, with large soft primary colour fur pom-poms. Apparently the wrap-around multicolour fur collar opens out to form a dangling accessory of mini separate balls that fall down the front of the wearer. Ive seen a few garments I would love to scoop up into my monochromatic dream wardrobe this season - but this collection is bang on the money - my imaginary Monopoly money If had some!

See the whole collection on the blog from his stylist Kim Howells, click here.
Thanks to Anna Murray for lending me her photos that are far superior to mine!

Tuesday, 22 February 2011

Tues 22nd Feb: Roksanda Ilincic backstage via Noel Stewart Millinery





Just look at this. There is no stopping Noel. Beautiful! All for Roksanda Ilincic - see the whole collection on Style.com.

Tues 22nd Feb: Julian J Smith via Noel Stewart Millinery




......... and on to another.......... Noel Stewart millinery for Julian J Smith ..........

Tues 22nd Feb: Holly Fulton "Kiss Me Quick, Squeeze me Slow" AW11












Holly Fulton has got all woozy doozy and romantic on us this season with a collection emblazoned in luscious lips and seductive smoke from cigarettes and pistols curling up though the prints of skyscrapers. The particular love in question is from the relationship of Coco Chanel and the Duke of Westminster which may be an indication of this pearl embellishment?! ........... and certainly in the yellow/black bespoke hand woven tweeds. I can never get enough of looking at her jewellery with the chunky faceted Swarovski components integrated into the garments by means of perspex placement. My date for the show was Anna Murray of Patternity who was in heaven aaring and ooohing at the print palazzo pants and grids of crystals on python. (Thanks Anna for the photos - your camera is inordinately better than mine - I'm well jel!)

Tues 22nd Feb: Holly Fulton backstage via Noel Stewart Millinery








Here is another installment in the ongoing Noel Stewart saga - reportage of shows from his perspective of the wondrous hats that he is making for seven collections this season. For Holly Fulton, Noel made little leather caps covered in sprinklings of Swarovski to sit atop the Marcel wave hair styles...........