Mon 23rd March: Bubalicious

Thanks to Susie for being my ambassador for a day at Paris Fashion Week wearing my trademark Dodecahedron or "bubble" necklace................. this is what its all about...............wearing it and enjoying it...............no matter if its a bit bonkers.............she always looks sublime so its an honour : )





(collage of her fashion week looks and detail of the necklace from when I 1st gave it to her last year)

Sun 22nd March: The Convenience Store

In true spirit of Andrew Ibi's reinvention of retail, he has relocated the newly replenished stock for a 3 week sort of sartorial sabbatical. He has temporally closed the doors to the comfort zone of his corner shop to embark on a pop-up shop in the St Martins Lane hotel. I went along to the opening on Thursday eve to have a a squizz at the spectacle and find out more.
Andrew explained that his onus on supplying a tactile and tailored shopping experience for his customers, is best suited to physically moving in order to connect with a dispersed clientele. To make the concept-led edited collection and service global, its not going to be a case of translating to online. Its not possible to virtually reinterpret the platform for one-off pieces and personal intuition from the proprietor. So with this in mind, the alternative action Andrew has taken is to occasionally recreate the Golborne Road haven in transitory spaces. The maiden voyage has taken him central but who knows where the next one will be .............L.A? Miami?






Photos Courtesy: Cube PR ( Gareth Pugh Dress, Hannah Marhall & Cherish Kaya from Ipso Facto, Andrew Ibi & Pam Hogg)

Sat 21st March: Another Man

I'm so chuffed not only to discover that my accessories have been styled by Nicola Formichetti but doubly pleased that they appear in the new Another Man. When I design it is never with a particular gender in mind and so it was an unsettling surprise when I realised that my S/S 09 collection turned out to be so feminine. So hallelujah it didn't actually limit the usage and here are both the Hydrangea hat and caterpillar necklaces used in this mixed up, muddled up collage story. Woo Hoo

ANOTHER MAN MAGAZINE S/S 09
PHOTOGRAPHY SØLVE SUNDSBØ
STYLING NICOLA FORMICHETTI

Friday 20th March: Louise Gray Friendship Brooch

Stop the press! Louise Gray for £20!
This is an exceptionally exciting project that has launched today on ASOS.com. Selected designers are collaborating with the online retailer to design a limited edition special product exclusive to them at an accessible price point. Louise's concept is a friendship brooch/keyring much like the heart lockets that you could split and share half with your other half. So on that basis you could go dibs-in with a friend and pay £10 for one of these handmade accessories that will be delivered in a custom built box. Whats stopping you? Quick, once they are gone, they're gone!

Friday 20th March: I love London, Zaiba Jabbar

I recently had the pleasure of meeting female film maker Zaiba Jabbar who was another director included in the Birds Eye View fashion screening for her David David short for S/S 09. During London fashion week she trawled the various events capturing the faces and places in a series of stop frame animations that she has compiled into a short film. This contribution for hintmag.com is a full 6 mins jam packed with the best insight into the atmostphere of the antics which pisses (please excuse my language) on any party pic pages that may have cropped up in the press. By asking fashion folk to blow a kiss into her camera, Zaiba has linked the love to a soundtrack by Crystal Fighters. Not only is this shot in a unique way but its a unique and informed experience of living life to the max at LFW.

Thurs 19th: New Shoes!

Thanks to http://www.joesafiend.blogspot.com/ for recommending me to the Nike ID project, I have been able to design my very own pair of trainers (for free)! I met Adrian Fenech in the ID studio at Nike Town and he showed me the operation of how to choose your sneaker style and then systematically select the leathers, stitching, detailing and text if desired. You can build your dream shoe in a 3D computer package and then have it made and delivered in a few weeks. Obviously my criteria was to fit as many colours on as possible and mastermine a truly rainbowtastic dunk. I love the silver heel especially and the contrast stitching of red on blue. Yum Yum Yum! I know having my name embroidered is a bit cheesy, but heck, I don't take myself that seriously - its too funny to turn down!
I hate shoes and I hate buying them even more. So this was a dream come true. I picked them up yesterday and have bounced into work this morning feeling better than Mr Soft from the mint advert. Its hard to take my eyes off them. I might even sleep in them like my nephew and wellies.
I can FULLY recommend this service to anyone who has a spare ton to transform their toes!

Weds 18th March: Michael Vanderham

Well here it is: the moment that I have been waiting for. Over the last few years Michael has invited me to the Central St. Martins MA static show to get to see the collections up close and personal. Finally it was his turn to shine as he graduated this year. I proudly stood by his stand for the duration of the preview and felt like his mum, making loud noises of approval just incase anyone had missed it for themselves.
Its so incredible to explore each dress and appreciate the inconceivable level of work in every spliced garment and also examine the sketch books where the trouble shooting took place. Michael has plotted out the whole process from initial historical investigations through to collaging the references to arrive at the intricate pattern cutting and fabric choices. Already gleaning glimmering press, I'm sure that Michael's next steps are going to follow the ones laid down by last year's success story of Mary Katrantzou (who I also blogged about from the static when I instantly fell for her). This is the unknown excitement that is synonymous with the unwritten chapter in the lifecycle of Louise's offspring when they fly the nest ............






Photos coutesy of Kim Howells

Tues 17th: thecocknbullkid

Yay, there are beautiful photos from thecocknbullkid single launch at the ICA last week. It was a double celebration as she signed to Moshi Moshi/Island on the same night. Congratulations! I have also included this endearingly catchy video from Your Twenties who supported on the night. This is for no particular reason other than the fact that I really like it and they made it themselves! Enjoy!
Whilst there are many many more Moshi Moshi related activities going on the other side of the pond at SXSW, the next night in London is already on the agenda with new 3 piece girl act
"An Experiment On A Bird In The Air Pump" @ The Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen on the 26th March.







Photos courtesy: Dan Wilton
To see more of Miss Blay and a wealth of other acts and scenes: www.danwilton.co.uk

Mon 16th March: Where can I fix my camera?

Sorry for the lack of entries, Im in Buenos Aires!
Actually and quite obviously Im not, I wish I was. But I can now look like I am, thanks to Alex Cunningham who brought these dope specs back from her trip for me!
The real reason for my absense is the persisting lack of camera. Although I do not manage to keep the content daily as was my initial intention, Ive realised that if i had a camera I could almost run a subsidiary blog for all the things that get left out. So many of my day to day antics get left by the wayside as I can't record the events. Last week I gave a lecture for Penny Martin at LCF, saw The Birds Eye View fashion film screening at the ICA, shot my look-book, joined the chaos at hairstylist Lyndell Mansfield's Too Many Tina's birthday party, took Maki to the Hussein Chalayan exhibit, dj'd with Teo (twice if I add the V&A gig from the previous week), was interviewed by Kasia Bobula for www.thecrane.tv.................. the only thing that didn't come off was attending the single launch for thecocknbullkid because it was so oversubscribed which was absolutely fantastic news for Anita, but brought about a little tear in my eye on account of missing her and Your Twenties.........................exciting times for them both

But please be patient with this blog, i hope to resolve the camera issue and get back to form..............any ideas, please let me know? Jessops reckon its a non-refundable £25 just to give a diagnosis.............

Thanks to Laura McDougall for this camera phone snap

Sat 14th: Swedish Fashion @ FTM

I have only just found out about the new exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum so asked my blog informer Ben Fern's to make it his latest mission to investigate . Ben headed south to Zandra Rhode's exhibition space, duley paid the £5 and reports back with the following info for anyone needing a weekend exhibit tip off:
13 Swedish designers on a quest to challenge the stereotypical picture of the countries fashion. The jewellery is fun and the Aud Charlotte Ho Sook Sinding pieces are really exciting. Other jewellery I thought was worth a look was Dada's Diamonds (www.dadasdiamonds.se/) and Henrik Brandt. Sandra Buckland's work alongside Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, is inspiring and the best in the exhibition. Fifth Avenue's conceptual and unusual designs were something to really admire.




Thank you Ben for this beautiful images too!

Friday 13th March: Patrick Wolf's wardrobe by Ada Zanditon

On Sunday night I had the priveledge of seeing the 1st performance from Patrick Wolf's iminent album release "Bachelor". I saw him preview new material last year but had no idea how the themes have evolved and what creations have been invented since the initial incarnation. As an exponent of avantgarde experimentation in his dress, I was just as excited to see his new wardrobe as hear the new songs. And boy, the prolific talent has been hard at work collaborating with designer Ada Zanditon to perfectly polish the next chapter.
I got in touch with Ada to find out exactly how it came about.
Patrick played her some music and explained a brief for her to freely interpret: death, oblivion, battle, bones picked clean, an elegant carcus.....visuals to come out of songs such as "Vulture".



"i had this kind of idea for a klaus nomi inspired charachter - the suit
a vulture - the vulture cape
and a henry the 8th the younger like a battle hero

suit - polished cotton very thick - pop out coffin panel on the arm and
generally inspired by coffins and vampires and oblivion....

vulture - vultures feathers as a suit of armour so its taking on the
strength / sight / cunning of the vulture in a shamanistic way .....

the henry 8th via space - human hair shoulder pads . heat seam sealing
tape to finish edges ......... henry the 8000th....

then the needles jacket was from my previous collection
that is inspired by extending the skeleton out of the body extending the
nerve endings touching the world with a magnification of what is
microscopic..."

Ada, who just exhibited in the Aesthetica section of London Fashion Week opperates her business within parameters of sustainability and ethical design. Her aesthetic is to create cutting edge conceptual clothes from conciencsely considered materials. Patrick has metomophisised by shedding the shimmering sparkling Peter Pan era and emmerged by crackling open spiky and radical new wings. I went backstage after the gig to have a close look at the incredible garments that have given his presence such a radical new energy. The jacket with spears is covered in individually sewn sticks that bristle in wakes when moved. If you want to see the spectacle for yourself and missed the show at Heaven last night, you can catch the act again at Koko in Camden tonight. For non Londoners, check Patrick's upcoming tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/officialpatrickwolf

(Thank you to Ada for the snaps from her fittings and the other images I have lifted from Nova Dando's blog.)








(Snow photos courtesy of: http://novadando.blogspot.com/)

Thurs 12th March: Sara Nobre

Thank you to Sara Nobre who joined me from Ravensborne to help with the collection and has just finished her work placement. Before she heads back home today for Lisbon fashion week, she has given me one of her lego necklace creations, complete with incased spaceman. Awesome, thanks man!

Tues 10th March: More Rosy Nicholas

Tues 10th March: Rosy Nicholas

In the midst of LFW preparation meltdown I received this crazily cosmic envelope in the post. The contents were equally gorge and here is one of the screen-print collage postcards. I didn't have time to investigate further................but just as soon as I could............look what I unearthed!!!!!!! Oh my God, how sparkalicious is this? Its the work of prop maker / illustrator Rosy Nicholas who has many sections on her website to have fun hopping around. But these images are from her Super 8 video work for which she built a space suit from kitchen foil, masking tape and felt-tip pens. My kind of choice materials! Infact I have the very same fluorescent stripey paper in my special paper folder so I knew we were on the same page.............(excuse terrible use of pun, they do slip in occasionally...........I fully lay blame at the feet of spadgerdisco)

Mon 9th March: Salome

This has been a long weekend of back-to-back gigs with Saturday's stint being the Salome screening on the southbank with live score by Bishi. I met up with her earlier in the week to get an idea of the original costumes to recreate something to adorn her hair. Its funny that I stayed faithful to the Aubery Beardsley theme but ended up with something intrinsically Bishi! I love that unconscious surprise in craft. So here is a screengrab from the 1923 film, a work-in-progress shot of my peacock headdress and two portraits from the event kindly sent to me by photographer Sara Ekholm.
I think that I have seen Bishi perform more times than I have fingers & toes, and it has never ever been the same twice! From a small ukulele folk gathering upstairs in a pub, to The London Symphony Orchestra album rearrangement and then NYC prodigy organist Cameron Carpernter collaboration in East End churches, to a backing track P.A at Kashpoint, to the set of The Jonathon Ross show, to a solo sitar recital on the staircase at the V&R Barbican exhibition, to an alfresco summer acoustic birthday duo with Patrick Wolf....................what is next on the horizon?............South by Southwest in Texas?...........(that could be me spreading an incorrect rumour, I get confused who is doing what so check her myspace for gig updates!)

Mon 9th March: Colorize

On Thurs eve Esser's stylist Kim Howells took me down into the depths of Selfridges to the Ultralounge for the launch of the recent Ray Ban project "Colorize". The newly coined covetable classic sunglasses label have introduced an idea similar to that of previous Adidas and Fendi popular DIY products. A pair of white Wayfarers come complete with a pack of felt tips to "colorize" your own pair. To introduce the limited edition line to the UK, Ray Ban commissioned 10 musicians/designers to customize a pair of specs and a Fender guitar to exhibit at Selfridges. Amongst the names asked were Biffy Clyro, New Young Pony Club, PPQ and the Mystery Jets and our friends Esser who performed live on the night. The Esser design was a collaboration with the band's art-director Elisha Smith-Leverock and illustrator Omar Hraib. Thanks to Kim for a snap from the night where you can see some of her canny styling in the form of a heavily embroidered pearly king jacket made for Ben by Judy Blame. Better detail can be seen in this backstage video from their recent stadium tour supporting The Kaiser Chiefs which came to an end the following night at Wembley.







Arena Tour Diary day 1



(Colorize snap courtesy of : http://fashionslant.blogspot.com/)

Sat 8th March: Louise Gray @ London Show Rooms

Yesterday saw the beginning of the Paris showroom for my New Gen counterparts which was opened by special brunch hosted by Sarah Mower (who is a BFC board member). I asked Ashley Fletcher from the inimitable Louise Gray studio to fill us in on the happenings. The turn out was conde-nastically considerable with attendees including Angelica Cheung, Alexandra Shulman, Kate Phelan, Franca Sozzani and Kazuhiro Saito. But the headline biller was Anna Wintour who was anticipated to arrive at 8 a.m which may have potentially unnerved the troops buy apparently the experience was lovely and similar to that of meeting the queen!
Thanks to Ashley also for the images of Louise at her Paris stand, her presentation in London and the video for her new collection by Cameron Smith.
Best of luck guys, bag lots of buyers and keep the British flag flying to bring them all back here for next season please! Fingers crossed!

Fri 6th March: Golden Silver's True Romance

A few of my favourite things aligned one day when video directors Colin Henderson and Daniel Brereton worked with stylist Kim Howells to shoot Golden Silvers for their new single noir thriller "True Romance". With all these elements in the melting pot, the elixir was surely going to be medicinal magic. And so it is, if you need a fix of giggles for your funny bones, tune in. This is bloody hilarious!
I got in touch with Colin and Dan to find out how the collaboration came about. At the initial meeting they discovered a mutual appreciation for all things pop and Prince relate,d which gives some indication to the purple hue of the set. The concept of their direction was to have the band performing on a fictional foreign language TV show. By researching videos of music shows from around the world, from the past and present, they decided to create a fictional country with it's own language. To illustrate this, watch the outtake footage here of the presenter Gabriel. The other stop-motion film below is by the band's resident photographer Graham who mixed his backstage snaps to the soundtrack of the single's remix by Michachu.
If the green makeup reminds of you a certain genius video for Metronomy, there is no coincidence. In addition to Metronomy, the duo have also art directed the likes of Late of the Pier, Esser, Best Fwends, These New Puritans. This is the 1st feature that they have shared directorship and when I asked them to list their future dream clients a mix of Girls Aloud and thecocknbullkidd arose...............so watch this space!
These outtakes were kindly sent to me by the guys (http://y-o-tube.blogspot.com/). Check http://goldensilvers.co.uk/category/video/ for news from thier recent world trip and further details....................








Making the Video - "True Romance" by the Golden Silvers from GT on Vimeo.


(photos courtesy of GT @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/noisehead/sets/72157613478849543/)

Thurs 5th March: Transformer

One of the referee's for my application to the New Gen award was Susie Bubble who has been a constant support and championer of my career. She dropped by the exhibition for our film presentation and took the opportunity to film Craig and I for her video wall on Dazed Digital.com. At each fashion week she is asking designers what they would like to transform into for a montage of soundbites from each city. As we are all tired and stressed the varying answers are quite surreal and funny. The most amusing from London is predictably Peter Jensen who single handledly never fails to CRACK ME UP! The other thing that made me laugh is Craig who says that he would like to be a cake because they are sweet. On that day I remember he was particularly over-tired and distracted with organising his film and runway show which were in a few hours of each other. His conversation consisted mostly of single word responses being "Sweet". That word even managed to get into this quote too but most probably totally subconsciously! Bless! Sweet!