Weds 23rd Dec: Elisha Smith-Leverock Interview

Elisha hardly needs an introduction here as one of my most prolific co-conspirators and imagists. Elisha is responsible for both my moving and still work of which the latest has just been launched in the format of my look book. In just one day Elisha shot the whole of my collection into a set of prints that I couldn't be happier with. This is it. She has catalogued the whole thing in the most beautiful way that gave me goose pimples as they individually materialised before my very eyes. So without further a-do, I hand you over to an initial interview to find out a little bit about how her vision was accumulated and cemented:

*  For more exclusive images from the shoot go to a new article on the collection at Dazed

1) When did you first pick up a camera and how did it come about?

I decided one day out of the blue that photography was it for me without even ever having really picked up a camera. It seemed instantly accessible to me although getting to a point where I was happy with the outcome wasn’t easy or instant at all.

2) What model camera was your first love and what was the first image you took that you were most proud of............a turning point?

My first true love was my Haaselblad before that I was infatuated with my Olympus mju. I used to take her everywhere and I have extensively documented the nightlife of electro era Berlin. I’m planning to exhibit those pictures at some point.
But the turning point for me was my final project at schooI, a series of portraits of female guitarists. I finally found my style and it got published in full by Bon Magazine.

3) You now use a HassleBlad...........why is that your weapon of choice?

The Hassleblad I use is special to me not only because Hasselblad's are excellent cameras, it’s the camera I have been using since I was a student. It’s vintage from the 60's and my dad acquired it as a gift to me form a pawn shop in D.C.. It’s now like an old friend because I know it inside out. Unfortunately I am sometimes forced to use digital nowadays, shame.

4) You are also a keep Polaroid'er............. how do you decide what event/subject requires that medium..........how do you keep all these portraits.......any plans for an exhibition?

I love Polaroid I like to use it when I want to add some softness to a subject. I also like the fact that you get some thing special, unique and non-reproducible. Of course you can scan it but that’s not the same.
I chuck them all in a drawer -I’m not very neat. Sometimes my medium format ones will still be wet and the chemicals will cause them to stick together then I get really interesting results. I think they will all make for a great exhibition or a book one day.

5) Whats your favourite Polaroid you've taken and why?

My favorite Polaroid is a beautiful black and white double exposure of a girl in a garden with a horses tail. I love it because it’s very ghostly.

6) Your signature style is making magic using natural sunlight. Where would you most like to shoot in the world if Conde Nast gave you an unlimited expenses trip to a location of your choice to shoot?

Marfa Texas no doubt.

7) You have quite a feminine soft touch to your aesthetic which is very refreshing. Which other female photographer's work do you admire and why?

This is a tough question because all my favourite photographers are men and the type of photography I like to look at might not necessarily reflect in my style. I must say I do love Harley Weir her work is inspired.

8) You spent time in Berlin before settling in London. Can you tell us a pro and con for working/living in each city?

I’m afraid I’m not impartial on this one because I’m German and I really miss the food and being close to my family. My time in Berlin was really fun and as mentioned I documented a lot of it. I think things have changed there tough and it seems a lot more settled. London has always been exciting and exotic to me but I could do without the completely extortionate cost of living.

9) At that time you were also a musician?! A large portion of your film work is within music video. What would be your dream project past or present? (e.g Jimi Hendrix Foxy Lady...........)

I would like to go back in time and do a video for my band Disco Arms Disco Legs. We had a massive radio hit with a song called ‘David Has Chlamydia’

10) We have ventured into fashion film together had a great time in doing so! Recently Chris Cunningham has made a beautiful advertisement for Gucci perfume and Jean Pierre Jeunet for Chanel No.5..........what brand / product would you like to get your hands on?

As you yourself once suggested Fred, I really do think we should do something for Swarovski together. It would be so lush!

"Hibiscus Ridiculous" S/S 2010

Photographer: Elisha Smith - Leverock

Stylist: Kim Howells

Hair: Aimee Robinson using Phyto

Make Up: Yin Lee @ Premier using MAC pro

Stylist Assistant: Reuben Esser

Hair Assistant: Brady Lea

Models: Ashleigh @ Profile

Petter Anderson @ D1

Body Suits: Sarah Magnay

Tues 22st Dec: Happy Christmas/New Year/Birthday/Thankyou Susie Bubble

Here is what you get for being a staunch ambassador for fredbutlerstyle.............and a generally lush soul...........like Susie Bubble.   An elephant never forgets........and I will never forget the few people that helped discover me and helped to spread the word..........so I like to keep the karma flowing and those angels in good stead with some of my samples.  

Thank you to Jessica Meek for helping me with the accessories for SHOWstudio by making a) these necklaces b) the boxes c) sticking letters to my latest look-books d) hand delivering them...........which I will cover in an imminent post........watch this space........

Tues 22st Dec: Christmas Shopping Ideas...........

Here's Fred with a quick reminder.............you can purchase the special accessories that I made to decorate the tree over at SHOWstudio this year............read more via the Vogue.com or Disney Roller Girl......

Tues 22st Dec: Happy Christmas from........ Part 3

Annie Collinge

Mon 21st Dec: Happy Christmas from........ Part 2

Clare Shilland

Mon 21st Dec: Happy Christmas from........ Part 1

Peter Jensen
Chrissie Abbott

Mon 21st Dec: Bishi loves Rosy Part 2

Here are a few snippets from the whole process I captured on the livestream by pressing Apple+Shift+4 many, many times!  I was so proud and excited to watch Rosy meeting Nick, and Bishi twirling and twizzling for a spectacular shot.........that has made the SHOWstudio homepage today!  Its such an awesome way to end the decade by having the moment bottled into a definitive scent that will stick forever on the pages of i-D.  On a personal note its been an overwhelmingly magical experience to be amongst friends who have all been included and to have our moment of celebration cemented in this way.  So, so lucky!   Really can't wait to see the final images!

Mon 21st Dec: Bishi loves Rosy Part 1

Yesterday saw the final day of Nick Knight's 100 portraits project for the 30th anniversary of i-D magazine.  At last count, he had tallied up 200 takes, with the very last sitter being himself for a self portrait!  

Here are some beautiful backstage shots of Bishi at the studio in Somerset House by Rosy Nicholas who is evidently obscenely talented in both making nice things and taking nice pictures!  Bishi commissioned Rosy to make a necklace and earrings for her slot in the scheme and Rosy rustled up this bling to adorn Bishi's Boadicea type Bustier.  

Sat 19th Dec: Happy 2010

After the success of our Christmas card mailer last year, we decided to lock down a couple of days to secure producing the sequel for 2010. For 2009 I made a pair of rainbow eyelashes which Megumi Matsuno applied and jazzed up with polished makeup to our model WorkIt girl Sara El Dabi. To keep the same crop and concept we decided to keep the focus on the eyes again but this time make glasses as the two zeros matched perfectly to spectacle frames. It was then that it occurred to me to pitch the idea to WAH! Nails to provide a rad manicure to spell out the "Happy" element. Whilst Anna Leader and Amy Gwatkin set up the lights at their studio, Megumi and I walked Tracy to WAH where she underwent the transformation to this stunner we captured in the final shot. What an amazing girl! GORGEOUS!

HAPPY 2010 !!

----------------------

Photography : Amy Gwatkin & Anna Leader

Art Direction & Glasses: Fred Butler

Nails: WAH nails

Make-up: Megumi Matsuno

Model: Tracy Onyecachukwu @ Elite London

Fri 18th Dec: Bar Boot Sale tomorrow

If anyone is looking for a bit of self indulgent retail therapy amidst the anxiety of the inevitable hysteria of Christmas Shopping tomorrow.............hop on a 38 out of the West End. Find yourself in Angel for some light relief at the Bar Boot Sale where you'll find sexy styles to snap up at *sexy prices (* sexy pricing* is an official term coined by the business mentoring scheme at the BFC......i didn't make that one up.......its how to pitch your prices at an attractive rate.........don't you know?!).
Its going to be a rummage of designer bargains..........think new Chanel or Gucci shoes for £35.........now that does sound sexy! To set off your new purchases there will be a hair stylist to give you an optional Saturday night blow dry. For begrudging boyfriends in-tow, there is mulled wine to make the day less tortuous..............or equally ditch your lady friend upstairs and just hang out in the seasonal surroundings of The Old Queen's Head downstairs. Christmas tunes will be played out from the Sounds Familiar Sound System, The Voguettes and The Internationals................what are you waiting for............?
Ive been tipped off about this event from an insider at Vogue who co-runs the show..........so needless to say.........when they state designer garms, its going to be good..........not the type of tat you find down The Music & Goods Exchange in Notting Hill!...........I can say that as Ive worked there.........infact who hasn't?

film by Jamie Jessett

Thurs 17th Dec: "Goodone" Interview

I was very excited to see the recent announcement that Goodone have been selected as a recipient of the BFC Esthetica sponsorship and consequently mentoring from Yasmin Sewell.  Not only are their garments ethically viable and one-off pieces by the very nature of the material being salvaged, but they are unique in the way that the design is directional and desirable.  Ive got a dress so I know!  I love wearing it and I wish I could have more......in every colour combination and style.........especially new season's looks with integrated hardware by Corrie Williamson (jeweller who also collaborates with Cooperative Designs).

I am so pleased to see Goodone taking off and gaining the acknowledgement and support that they deserve.  To be totally honest, I think its rare to find a company who combine both steadfast ethical rules and steadfast fantastic design in the current climate.  This will all change in time but only because of pioneers such as Goodone and Ada Zaniton taking up the mantle.  So to find out more about how it has been achieved, I got in touch with young entrepreneur Nin Castle at Goodone........

1.  How did you start (what was your first project under the name Goodone?) 

Well it started 3-4 years ago we were originally called goodshop but then we didn’t start a shop and turned into goodone, it was a bit of a piss take in the beginning, but it stuck! One of the first most interesting projects was with NOKI we were both based in Brighton when I first started the business; he is like the godfather to goodone.

2.  What is the signature Goodone style? 

Sexy but not slutty, fashionable but not superficial, recycled but not obvious, clothes you want to wear made in a way that you like.

3.  What is the best-seller design? 

The heart bum skirts sold well for us so have the heart jumpers and the bodice dresses....

4.  What is your favourite colour combination? 

Ooh Fred that’s mean it was definitely pink, peach, coral and orange, but I think I’m moving out of my coral faze, maybe navy blue and cream but that’s quite boring!

5.  What is your favourite thing to find amongst all the waste that you process.......... 

Cashmere jumpers make my day and we find loads often with only a tiny moth hole on them.  I found a harvey nicks cashmere jumper the other day and one of my favourite dresses was found on the floor of the rag factory where we pick our clothes from.

6.  What’s your latest design that you are most proud of?  

I’m most proud of my double top buckle dress, but I think I’ll be wearing my cropped knot t shirt the most

7.  Whats next for Goodone ?  

Well we have been quite busy recently there has been a project with Puma and I have just signed a 2 yr contract designing upcycled clothing for Tesco, on top of that we have just been awarded mentorship by the British Fashion Council, and we are organising another project with a major retailer available next year watch this space.

8.  Who would you most like to wear Goodone...........if you had to pick an ambassador/endorser.......ie. do you have a muse? 

We did have Lauren Lavern’s stylist request a load of dresses not sure if any of them made them on to her back but she would be a good example of a goodone lady.  We have also had lots of requests from Katy Price quite an unusual girl to see wearing recycled clothing!!

9.   Have you got an insider tip of another one to watch in the sustainable fashion scene? 

There are quite a few people about at the moment but I have to say Nina Dolcetti she makes the sexiest shoes I have seen.  Her and her shoes are more lovely than chocolate, and that’s saying something.

All images from Nin, taken at her studio

Weds 16th Dec: 100 Portraits by Nick Knight

Yesterday I had a once in the life time opportunity to have my portrait taken by Nick Knight.  Wow, that'll be one to tell the grand kids!  

It was a joint portrait with my soulmate/muse/L.O.V.E ROWDY SUPERST*R.  We were the last entry on a jam-packed day of sittings for the 100 portraits project to be printed in the 30th anniversary issue of i-D magazine.  Nick told us that he has already shot 130 subjects so far since starting at the beginning of this month.  He is continuing the onslaught of capturing a comprehensive roster of characters for another 10 days until the closing of The Fashion Revolution exhibition at Somerset House.  Here you can see Henry Holland who I snapped from the other side of the studio to illustrate how you can watch the live shoot through a 2 way mirror from within the show.  Here are fellow blondies Katie Shillingford and Karen Langley (fashion editors, Dazed Magazine) who had just come off set from their duo slot.  They assured me that it wasn't too scary!  Which..........it wasn't at all for my turn with Rowdy.  It was hilarious!  Nick perceptively hooked into our relationship and orchestrated me standing still whilst he had great fun directing Rowdy to jump around and pull larger than life shapes across the rest of the screen.  I wasn't very proficient or professional in maintaining my poise ...........I kept cracking up...........but I think that gave a few alternative shots for the mix.............I can't wait to see the final black and white portrait..........we looked over the series afterwards and the lighting is incredible!  

My outfit was an insanely cosmic catsuit specially made by weareallinone for the day which went down very well and prompted requests for "more snood".  I accessorized the " onsie" with a piece from my new collection and a piece from my archive..........with makeup by Thomas De Kluyver.  Rowdy wore Jaiden RVA James with customised knee pads by me and a helmet design from my S/S 2010 collection which I remade in black on his request!

(images top to bottom:  Screen grab by Alex Fury, more by Amy Gwatkin,  Thomas K at my studio for the make-over, my snaps from Somerset House).

(Happy Birthday to Alex Fury who celebrated the auspicious event with a yummy Thornton's chocolate cake!)

Tues 15th Dec: Kate Moross

I got in touch with Kate Moross recently to ask her to contribute a portrait for my feature on "Wear Your Old Band T-Shirt To Work Day".  She duly obliged which I was very chuffed about ..........and now I'm doubly chuffed as I have received my very own NEW T-Shirt within in a cute parcel shipped from KM HQ.  Yes, this plastic zip-lock envelope arrived neatly with a printed label including a smiley face infront of my name..............with a La Roux special edition T-Shirt (based on a cameo, as that is one of Elly's favourite things!) and an Apes & Androids 7" turquoise vinyl release "Golden Prize" from her own record label.   Thank you Kate........I unearthed in the post box just as I was leaving my studio at 11:30 at night, so it was a very welcome treat to cheer me up and cease my ungracious huffing and puffing!  

Just incase you ever missed this...........here's something to take a few minutes to enjoy and bop around to ......... 

Simian Mobile Disco - Audacity of Huge from ISO FILMS on Vimeo.

Mon 14th Dec: Amelia's Anthology of Illustration

Here is Andy Merritt (of Merritt studio) who is one of the artists that has decorated a wall at Concrete Hermit to launch the book "Amelia's Anthology of Illustration" that he has contributed to.  The book is a limited edition run featuring a compilation of emerging and exciting illustrators who answered an open brief on alternative technology via Amelia's website.  

"In this illustration I want to see ways that a new technology would be integrated into our future lives… so interaction with the surroundings or people will be good. This is not a technical illustration, it’s an aspirational one, but you should imagine this technology in some detail, however fantastical it may be."

To see the final selection of internationally submitted imaginative responses to this brief.........order your copy of the signed publication by Amelia herself..........who is the daughter of 2 scientists ............so this project has been particularly close to her heart.........in addition to being her first official book since the last issue of her periodical..........and her constant pursuit in encouragement for discovering, showcasing and supporting new talent.

Sun 13th Dec: Happy Birthday Bebs