Sunday, 1 March 2009

Sun: 1st March: Top Picks in Pix

During London Fashion Week I diligently stood by New Gen stand and talked more in 4 days than I have before in my whole life. For anyone who doesn't know me, I am a girl of few words. On the whole, I opt for silence over conversation and after 2 months of studio cabin-fever, I was unwittingly thrust into an interrogation carnival freak show. I even had to talk to Sarah Brown (PM's wife) and concentrate double hard on not letting tourets take over.
As a consequence of duty to my sponsership, I could not attend any other shows. But my blog wing-man Ben did the rounds and kept pace with Menkes furious scribbling with high octane camera antics. I think he had a blast running around seeing collections and meeting random fashion folk en route. He has sent me many many fantastic snapshots and here i have selected the best according to my vision. The press has been flooded with repetitive imagery so hopefully this is a slightly different angle. Enjoy!
Images by Ben Fern
(Roksanda Illincic, Craig Lawerence, Holly Fulton, Johnny Woo, Cooperative Designs)






Saturday, 28 February 2009

Sat 28th Feb: Hanging Around With Hermes

Here is the latest in the line of moonlighting modelling jobs in Andy Macgregor's portfolio. My studio-mate who is usually to be found conjuring up miniature cardboard novelties for photo shoots or gigantic cardboard scenarios for installations................also has a secret sideline in the odd starring role. With previous appearances for Paul Smith and CDG, here is the new Hermes menswear magazine shoot by Tim Walker. All in a day's work...........getting fitted in numerous beautiful blazers and having to stand in on a vertical illusion. Whats the next booking?...........




Friday, 27 February 2009

Friday 27th Feb: Hats Off to Charlie Le Mindu

For me, this London fashion week was a playground for pleasure in the playfullness in hats and general headwear. My final smiles stretched from ear to ear all the way through Charlie le Mindu's presentation at Portland Place. His collection pieces weaved and constructed from hair, were so large it was like Alice In Wonderland emerging from the door as the models appeared gangly and triumphant. Charlie must have been living and breathing hair over the last couple of months as each item looked like it must have taken an army of coiffures to do each one. And there were many many looks in the whole package. I can't wait to find out how these creations will get couriered to shoots. I think it can only be a good thing as it will deter those stylists who order everything in on a whim. Courageous fans will find a way to incorporate the miraculous concoctions into their call-ins. I am a massive fan and this was yet another moment in millinery history. Blimey, what a week!


Friday 27th Feb: New Gen




My stand in the New Gen area in the exhibition tent at LFW
Photos courtesy of fashion 156 who I was positioned next to and kindly took these snaps for their blog

Thursday, 26 February 2009

Tuesday, 24 February 2009

Tues 24th Feb: Hats Off to Nasir Mazhar

So after waiting a good 18 months for the Stephen Jones exhibition, I was bouncing off the walls with excitement to cross the road from LFW to the V&A for the opening night. I whipped a silver mirror disc (new collection) off my stand and accessorized myself with Vicky's camera to capture the night for hintmag.com (as seen in previous posts). I was in HAT HEAVEN! Oh my word! I didn't even go into the exhibit because that would be like having a birthday on Christmas day! The party was quite enough of an ordeal to orienteer myself around with the dress code stipulating everyone to wear a head adornment. The night was blissfully unpretentious (sic: riotous) with a gleaming turn out from the old-guard and original crowd -Stephen's contemporaries from the 80's.

And so onto the new generation, and quite literally a New Gen winner Nasir Mazhar. I blogged his presentation from last season as it was a significant moment in millinery. If its possible, I think he pulled off another one yesterday. I was personally blown away but I think that was the general verdict according to feedback from the chaperone's bidding the guests good night.
I will try and keep this short and sweet: EXQUISITE EXECUTION and EDITING. If I say any more it will dilute the enormity of the experience. So I salute you sir, ...........my hat's off to Nasir.


Tues 24th Feb: Hats Off Part 2





Tues 24th Feb: Hats Off





Sunday, 22 February 2009

Sun 22nd Feb: Michael Van Der Ham

I am a smug-face, weepy eyed, Miss B. I am so proud. Don't say, I didn't tell you.......... you read it here first!
Now sit back and see these dresses pop up everywhere.
Michael opened the CSM show and also closed the proceedings by scooping the award.
I have been going through all the reports online and it is an image from his collection that has been unanimously attached to the article from wwd to elle etc.
With Sarah Mower already on side, here is the official word from Vogue.com:


"And the show was just as energetic as ever, both on and off the catwalk. First up was Michael Van Der Ham, whose graphic shapes on multi-textured dresses were a perfect execution of a refreshingly new idea – and wearable at the same time. Those who gave their gold star there and then weren't far off the mark – Michael ended up as joint winner of the L'Oreal Professionnel Award alongside Oden Wilson"


Michael has kindly sent me these snaps from an initial fitting. Just one of the stages during the labour intensive treatment of his dresses. Go to vogue.com and use the zoom function to fully explore the multi-layered brocade and hand embroidered panels, spliced together in historically cross referenced sihouettes. Each different look with precision detailing and character of its very own, was styled with a pair of specially comissioned collaborative foil-print tights. I can't wait for the static show to get my paws on the pieces for a close inspection to fully appreciate the technique and tenderness in this (deep breath of sincerity) genius collection.





Thursday, 19 February 2009

Thurs 19th Feb: Sneaky Peep

I have lent out one of my new pieces pre-preview. That was scary.......... handing over a hat box containing a laboured love, hoping to God it would return in one piece........otherwise my stand at fashion week would look a little sad. But thanks to fashion156 it came back in good shape and Im really chuffed with the outcome which is online today. My hat is teamed with a dress by Tim Ryan which was very intuitive of the stylist as my collection also features purple and some pom pom action! But not giving too much away yet...........check out the site for lots more 1st glance exclusives of many designers........

Plus a write up about whats showing this season accompanied by images from my S/S collection shot by the fantastic duo Mishkin:

"
For accessories, look no further than Fred Butler, who will also show at the New Gen exhibition, under her own label. Fred’s sculptural accessories marry rich textures, graphics and contrasts, seen through in her signature vibrant palette. Her rainbow coloured ‘Happy 2009’ eyelashes were the final word for many a style-blogger around the world. With an eye to adding some colour to a grey London, her collection is sure to be the first word in accessories this year."


Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Weds18th Feb: Welcome to the asylum

Whilst the fashion pack are about to make a skip across the pond from NY fashion week to London, the city has already been warming up the runways..........or at least the studios of CSM. Foundation student Ben Fern helped his course organise a fashion show last week and here is his report from the next - next generation:
,
"We had a week to put together the show, which you would think would be simple, however it was a nightmare, but was very well executed in the end I think! A dark gloomy set with a white sheet where the models were to walk through to catch a silhouette which sadly didn't come out on camera. All the clothing items were made by the group, fashion communication people I'd like to add, no fashion designers!
Black, white, beige were the themed colours, which I think worked quite well too. The event was packed with people!"




Weds 18th Feb: Time Out

Its that time of year for an influx of fantastic magazines to plough through. I cant keep up, I keep seeing a new title every day. Has anyone else noticed how nice looking the new format Harpers is? Im not allowing myself to purchase that heavyweight until Ive finished dissecting all the profiles in i-D............of which there are a staggeringly satisfying amount, hooray! BUT the exception to my plan yesterday was picking up the Fashion Special Time Out because Im too excited about fashion week to miss anything. Time Out has really stepped up in the last year and this is an excellent issue with a bonus guide to the East End. BUT the best discovery was to read the credit that Annie Collinge shot the portraits for the feature on London's new uprising talent. Rock on Annie, the most modest mouse in photography land who secretly scurry''s around on prestigious portrait commissions without ever letting on. The last time I saw Annie was in November when we bumped into each other on Broadway (please don't gag at my overtly "Sex In The City" inconceivable saccharine anecdote - its just fate and fact). Annie has left London to reside in the Big Apple this year but came back for an exhibition last month and it seems managed to slip in a few jobs whilst here..........never one to rest on her laurels, check out http://anniecollinge.com/ for what else she has been up to ..........

Thanks to Annie for sending over these outakes from the shoot


Monday, 16 February 2009

Mon 16th Feb: My name is K A B I R

A couple of years ago, I was wearing one of my iridescent circle hairpins at a fashion week party and got accosted by an outrageously bedecked reveller who wanted to know where I got it. This is how I 1st met K A B I R, who went on to take me under his wing and introduce me to the clubland of London which I had never discovered being a doormouse, doormat 24/7 assistant. The rest is history and we have since collaborated on set as well as off, out and about on the dancefloor (and bar at Boombox). At last his boombastic portfolio is online and open to public view. Its great to see everything together in one place. From styling Paloma Faith and Roisin Murphy to devising show piece collaboration with Fleey Ilya to most recent look-book for knitwear label Sibling. Here are a couple of images from the most recent Drama magazine where he used my Bambi Blinkers on Lykke Li and my archive zipper necklace in a JCDC special. (images Ram Shergill)


Saturday, 14 February 2009

14th Feb: First Love

Here it is. The 1st issue of LOVE which previewed today at DSM and sold out within the 2 hours. As such, my reporter Ben missed the action after trekking all the way there on my instruction (SORRY!). But fortunately I have been sent these images courtesy of my friend HannaH Beal who was paid £5 to go and buy a copy for a colleague. She didn't know what was going on or what the hysteria was all about so text me for an explanation which was lucky as I could then pester her to get some illicit snaps. So thank you Han for risking a telling-off in the name of blogging! Apparently there was also a bed as an installation for this "Love In" but she was stopped before being able to get a pic of that.................



Sat 14th Feb: Lily's toys lost

So after hyping up the content of Andy Hillman's artwork for Lily Allen's new album, I was totally gutted when it finally came out. I asked the nice lady in HMV to break the seal on a CD with impatient enthusiasm to investigate the outcome. To my horror it is just a few pictures of the outsize letters which we have already seen. None of the incredible toy shots have been included. Here are some snaps from Shoreditch studios on the day of the shoot to give them some exposure so that they have not gone totally to waste. Hillman Studio had so much fun making these treasures its such a shame that they could not be enjoyed by fans who invest in the album. In this day and age of acquiring music without having to buy the actual hardcopy, I find it a strange decision of the record company to only run an edited cut of this sensational story. Who knows what happened but I had to share these images for everyone to see the characters that were invented in Lily's honour.





(photos: Alex Cunningham)

Friday, 13 February 2009

Fri13th is unlucky for some but NOT for Craig!

The sun is out at last and the angels are shining down on Craig Lawrence as he found out today that a creation from his graduation collection is modelled by Tilda Swinton on the front cover of the new Another Magazine. Can I just say, how bloody exciting is that! I was excited enough just to see a preview of the shoot in the Observer Woman at the weekend so to now see the shot has made the cover............woo hoo!
Craig has kindly sent me some snaps from the time when he was knitting the original collection. Back when the glitter yarn was the only twinkle in his eye, little did he know where it would end up! The shoot was styled by Panos Yiapanis and features garments by numerous other designers who are part of the NEW GEN scheme. The time is now!

(photos by Kenzie)




Thursday, 12 February 2009

Thurs 12th Feb: Count Down

Only 1 week left till London Fashion Week eve, yikes!
Here is a preview of the Cooperative Designs collection as shot in self portrait by their muse Amy Gwatkin.
This time last week I delivered her birthday present which was a bashful gesture as I missed the actual official celebratory bash due to my hibernation status. But I love this spontaneous Spadgermatazz self portrait as much as the organised ones for the Coop A/W launch and look book.



Wednesday, 11 February 2009

Weds 11th Feb: Back To Life

Whilst British yaghtswoman Dee Cafari has been sailing in impossibly inhospitable seas to become the 1st woman to sail round the world alone in both directions, I have been taking part in my own one-woman experiment to test out the boundaries of cabin fever by inadvertently residing solely within the four walls of my studio. Its me and the mice of Islington working to the beat of "we will fix it, we will mend it" pushing the realms of physical endurance and sleep deprivation equal to Dee in the high sea.
Well perhaps not, I don't yet have a survival suit to swim out in perilous seas to save my skipper BUT I am feeling the need to activate my EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) to be rescued. My batman beam has been answered with invitation to the next "Work It" event in the ever increasing over subscribed calender. If I do make it down I fully intend to dance away the blues of pre fashion week hibernation hysteria. Hooray!
I was very upset to miss the last block party when I was away in NY, but fortunately didn't feel too far from the action when i found an article about it in the NY Times Style Magazine! Now the British press have followed suit giving a feature in last weeks Sunday Times Style. So if you are still not sure what all the fuss is about , head down to the ICA this Saturday for some Valentine Vibes and good times.
(On another Valentine tip, Katie Grand's new baby "Love" magazine is being previewed at Dover Street Market on Saturday for anyone unable to wait another week for the official launch.................http://thelovemagazine.blogspot.com/)





'Work it' - block party from Trav on Vimeo.

Tuesday, 10 February 2009

Tues 10th Feb: Fold Fantasy

My Graphic collaborators "No Days Off" continued with my origami obsession for the S/S look book by inventing a special envelope to encase the concertina artwork. Here are photos illustrating each stage from the portfolio of Katie Alger who was on placement with the team during this project. She graduated from Kingston last year and is curently featured in the Wallpaper 2009 Graduate Directory.