Monday 8th June: Full Circle

The original design workings are still up on the studio wall and now I have got the KABIRI window display imagery back, I have united the two.   Job satisfaction.  LOVE Elisha-Smith Leverock's photography.  Thanks for letting me keep the print!

http://www.smith-leverock.co.uk/

Sunday 7th June: Bishi Beauty

Quite possibly the most predictably well turned out ladies I have the pleasure to know.  Infact I have never seen her have an off-day.  Every time I either arrange to meet Bishi or bump into her in that London fate way, she is always immaculate, mesmerising and spectacular.  

As with the majority of my musical cohorts, we met via me contacting her through myspace to send her an accessory.   Here is the latest donation from my current collection with silk print designed by Brie Harrison.  Not one is the same as the origami fold results in each pattern turning out different for every single one.

I have decided to document Bishi's looks on my twitter............think I'm getting the hang of it?!

http://bishi.co.uk/diary/

Sat 6th June: Dean Quinn at CSM

Ive been trying to pin Dean down since Thursday to get an interview for the blog.   Having just got his degree collection back from being marked, he invited me in to his studio at CSM for a close up inspection.  I have to say that I'm going to be so sad when the campus moves as I love spotting the students emerging for a cig decked out in their ridiculous regalia.  So i thought that it might be a special moment in time to capture it in its essence before its turned into a bouji appartment block.  

The circulating crests of bugle beads came about as a happy accident from a faulty measurement when arranging them in flat lines.  The flashes of light that reflect from this staggered surface terrain was inspired by sun shining onto skin through a blind in Bladerunner.  The fiercely spliced silhouette explained as the "Dean Shoulder" was designed by exposing and stacking shoulder pads.  Inside the jackets of his 50% hand-sewn collection, is a complex network of tape to hold each piece in place so it lies flat to the body.  

Dean's first ever foray into fashion was making a dress for his GCSE art project which was lost on his conservative highschool.  But he sought out a mentor and travelled from Ireland to intern with Zandra Rhodes in London when he was still only 16.   There he was put to work painting pattern designs and found out about applying to Central St.Martins.  Fast forward 8 years and he has just won the Womenswear Award at the press show for the BA course, presented by Mark Fast.  In fact it transpired that today is actually his birthday!  You can't ask for a much better birthday present than that!  But with the unprecedented press interest that he has received in the last 4 days, who knows what else is round the corner?   Keep your eyes peeled for these tailored treasures reappearing...........

Sat 6th June: The Twits

I was under the impression that Tweet was an American R'n'B act who sang about masturbation but apparently the word is now more commonly synonymous with Twitter.  Thc act of writing an update of "What Are You Doing?" is know as a "Tweet".

Ever the trail-blazer, I appear to be a good year late on this one and just jumped on board the bandwagon when given the nod by NoDaysOff.  When they aren't methodically recording the progress of the nextdoor building demolition.......they are also busy designing incredible artwork for album covers (remember the Roisin Murphy "Overpowered" in a Sandra Buckland Dress accessorized w/Nazir Mazhar).  Here is Paloma Faith who is the latest artist to have been granted their magic touch and the posters have just gone up round town..........which I have snapped on the street to tide us over until I get more content direct from NDO HQ.  (hint hint guys!)

http://twitter.com/NoDaysOffStudio

http://twitter.com/fredbutlerstyle

Friday 5th June: Totem 49 @ Kemistry

So here it is!

Damien Poulain's hard work came together for the unveiling of his new show "Totem 49" at Kemistry.  Charlotte Street was alive with people buzzing in and out of the gallery likes bees excitedly circulating the graphic honey comb trap.   

I got to finally see which one is which, and appreciate the finer details e.g "Britney Spears Shaved Head" is painted with the word OOPS!  So that'll be both commentary on a lyric and how she probably felt at that time!  That is a good example of one of the more humorous pieces which made my shoulders move violently up and down with chuckles.  But some were slightly darker and made me a bit sad.  "Shell" was the petrol logo with a sea bird sat ontop dripping with a coating of a black oil slick.    The sequence of characters is set out in an accompanying book which he commissioned a poet to explain and elaborate on the selected studies.   So you can dip into this delightful limited edition catalogue to read the individual profiles and reasonings.  

Damien also painted the front of the building with the face from the polkadot Comme Des Garcons totem ...............

"TV TEST CARD"  - a personal favourite!
"KLAUS NOMI' - one for spadger!
"SOLOMAN & CAT"
"JCDC"  "V&R"
"GARETH PUGH"  "HUSSEIN CHALAYAN"
The exhibition is on until mid July so you have time to check out the carved reclaimed skirting board and dado rail joys!

http://damienpoulain.com/

Thurs 4th June: CSM BA HONS Fashion Show - Dean Quinn

This year I went along to the CSM Show to see the collection by Dean Quinn.  I met him in November in New York when he was interning for ThreeAsFOUR.  Whenever I hear another British accent there, Im intrigued!  So I was excited to see his own work, especially his degree show!  With absolutely no idea what he made, it was a relief that I genuinely loved it.  My "woops" were not in vain.  When it came to the end of the 40 selected designer's press show, 3 awards were announced.  CHECK IT OUT..........Dean won the womenswear award!  I couldn't believe it!  My intuition is bang on.  Firstly with Michael Vanderham at the MA show and now Dean at the BA.  In truth, its actually no credit to my instinct...........its more a case of the stable on Forsyth Street NYC.......those who come in and out have a disposition to going there in the first place and secondly pick up the magic that is abundant in the atmosphere.  

I managed to blag backstage (in a mute bashful way with a bossy mum/Kim Howells pushing me forwards) to get a photo of Deans's work up close.  He held up one of his intricate blade beaded skirts smiling still stricken with sheer shock from his award announcement.  The camera went dead so I don't have the shot to share!  But its in my mind and erasable forever there.  So here I have borrowed Alex Fury's image from SHOWstudio.  After the show Annalisa Dunn (Cooperative Designs) astutely commented that the tendency to cram in too many ideas created weak collections..............whereas one idea executed beautifully sang so much stronger...........this is exactly what Fury wrote too.................so take heed to this advice those of you in your 2nd year!

"My favourite from the internal show was undoubtedly Dean Quinn, and even on second viewing his monochrome collection again made me (and a number of others) sit up and take note. Quinn sliced his tailoring with a savage bent, restricting his palette to black and white and his decoration to glass bugle beads, thickly crusted across his tight trousers and brief skirts. With so many designers trying to pack a million ideas into these six-piece presentations, Quinn's focus served him well. As a statement of intent, this collection was spot on - and rightfully scooped one of the evening's coveted L'Oréal Professionnel awards."

Alex Fury

www.showstudio.com

WEds 3rd June: Damien Poulain, "Totem 49"

During a breakfast culture-catch-up time, I opened this week's issue of Design Week and here is what was looking off the page back at me.  I stopped breathing and in dyslexic frustration tried to scan the blurb to find a credit.  There it was "Damien Poulain" - graphic design wizard.  Just take a squizz at this congregation of cheeky chappies that he has created for a new exhibition "Totem 49".  This is quite possibly one of the best images that I have seen in recent times and I couldn't wait to get to work to email him and find out more.   Damien has responded perfectly to my brief of submitting snaps from his work in progress so we can see how it all come about. .................. 

Q:  What was the concept for the characters?  I can recognise a Victor & Rolf harlequin and see in your sketch that is says Gareth Pugh...........can you please just quickly explain the idea behind the collection.........

A:  Yes, indeed, there are some fashion icons (the ones that inspire me) but the collection also tackles politics, music, art, beliefs, technology etc.. I wanted to recreate new religions based on contemporary symbols, icons, beauty. The idea came up when visiting museums, as we are confronted by ancient religious sculptures, divinities or totems and we don't really know what they mean. I thought that this could be adapted to our century's new idols to create new icons/totems that you may or may not relate to depending on your interpretation of them.

I still have no idea of the scale of the pieces that he has hand painted on reclaimed wood, so its going to be a really nice surprise when I go!  Its opening tomorrow, so go to check out these crazy creature comforts at Kemistry.  They are going for sale as a collection rather than individual pieces.  I'm considering getting an invigilating stint at the gallery so i can sneakily pocket one when no one is looking.  Somebody, somewhere out there did that with a certain Anthony Gormley exhibit.............on that occasion the light fingers were not actually mine...........but it did plant a seed!*

June 2009 Totem 49 Exhibition Solo show at Kemistry Gallery, London. 4th June to 18th July 2009. http://kemistrygallery.co.uk *Obviously Im joking.  I wouldn't actually steal. Although the notion is becoming a bit of a reaccurance in the musings on this blog. I feel like that character from the Fast Show........."Im a little bit oooh, little bit way.........wouldn't trust me with that love...........no no no"

Tues 2nd June: Craig Lawrence Part 2

Whilst at a recent sponsorship seminar Craig, Piers Attkinson and I had a good old rant about being bogged under by blog interviews and not having time to actually get round to designing...............before we had time to set the world to rights, I was immediately thinking up questions to ask Craig myself !.............

Ha, ha, sorry Craig!  He has very, very kindly relinquished to my request to get a glimpse into his wooly workings..........listen up Swarovski, the boy is a genius............

1)  You have a magic wardrobe of knitted jumpers that I love.  What was your favourite jumper/knitted item when you were a kid?

it was one gran knitted, green with rows of red apples and then 1 on the top row eaten, me and my bro had both had one.

2)  When I was at primary school there was a girl who knitted her own jumpers.  That blew my mind, I could just about manage a scarf with the intervention of the WI knitting circle.  Can you remember the first thing you knitted that was actually a wearable piece? 

it was my salmon pink scarf i knitted at my grans, it was my favourite and i never washed it, but i lost it on the train on the way up to london, sucks!

 

3)  You are known for pioneering "knitting" with unconventional materials.  What is your absolute dream material? 

i would love to knit with leather again and crystals as well, perhaps pink crystals!

4)  Your last collection was inspired by cocktails.  Can you give the readers a recommendation of making and decorating your favourite tipple?  

ok so the last one i made was watermelon daquiris, grab a big chunk of watermelon, put 4 spoons of sugar in, with half a lime, as much rum as you can handle, then blend with half a bag of ice, its amazing and not really that expensive, double fun!

5)  A dress from your graduate collection featured on the front cover of Another Magazine modelled by Tilda Swinton.  Who else would you like to see wearing your work / who is your favourite dressed person?

beth bitto's hot as well, she wore a pink ball ribbon dress in may issue of dazed, then i'm really not sure................ apart from girls aloud

6)  What was the last unsuspecting inspiring thing that you saw?

actually, the recyling bin bags, they come in so many different jazzy colours

Images courtesy of:

http://www.kenzieburchell.com/

Monday 1st June: Craig Lawrence

http://www.kenzieburchell.com/

Its that time of year again.  Colleges are frantically getting their graduate shows together and I can't wait!  Tomorrow is the Central St. Martins show which is a little bit scary because I can't believe its been a year since the last one!  I remember rushing down to catch Craig's show and being blown away seeing his collection (as I said at the time - a moment in history).  That sense of pride has snowballed over the year as he has had such an incredible 365 days!  The red ribbon dress modelled by Tilda Swinton on the cover of Another Magazine was just the cherry on top of the cake.  There is the inspiration for those of you about to finish..........it can be done!

Here are some BEAUTIFUL back stage images from the degree show by Kenzie Burchell which I have only just seen.  Its such a joy to revisit, so I wanted to share it!

Here's to the upcoming shows which I'm jumping around with excitement to see.  I'm even presenting the textiles award at the Brighton Uni show, how hilarious!  So please let me know of others I need to see..........so far I have tickets for Kingston Fashion,  LCC Surface Design, and Westminster Illustration............ (thanks to previous placement students, you know who you are, I'm on your case!)

31st May: Primavera Day 3

We had a minor technical glitch from our man on the festival frontline.   But we're back on track for Dan Wilton's first hand/claw encounters from Primavera.  Latest installment of phone pic action "New Zuul tattoo yep".  

Thanks for the update!   (Don't worry I will be reimbursing your phone bill!)

Wish I was there to catch Aphex under the Mediterranean rays.  :  (  But hey, at least the sun has put his hat on for London this weekend otherwise it would be doubly gutting.  

http://www.danwilton.co.uk/
http://www.primaverasound.com/

Next in line on the European adventure trail for the blog is photographer Anna Leader who is punting into Venice for the opening of the Biennial.  Lets see what she finds............perhaps tattoos could be an interesting take on that particular festival too!  For the 53rd Biennial, Steve McQueen is representing for Britain by showing a film in the pavilion but details are under wraps until the unveiling on June 7th..........so check back to see what's going on.......

Sat 30th May: Just for Giggles

My mum likes to post me silly things.
This newspaper clipping is the latest from an article about the "Hay Festival" which ends tomorrow.
Hope it gives you the same tickle it gave me.

Sat 30th May: Last Days of 143

This weekend is the final stint of the pop-up shop "143" curated by SilverSpoonAttire, designed by Kate Morross and selling my caterpillar necklaces (amongst many other lines). So if you are in Soho, drop by. Its right round the corner from the Pam Hogg pop-up shop. So you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone before they vanish. You can even win this bike!

“The Candy Floss Pink Sparkle Lo-pro”, as customised by Kate Moross for 143, has been produced by Fixed Gear London and is valued at over £2,000, it can be won by raffle via 5 pound tickets with all proceeds going to the chosen 143 charity, Barnardo’s.

143 POP UP BOUTIQUE

3 LOWNDES COURT,
(OFF CARNABY STREET)
LONDON W1F

NOW OPEN FOR BUSINESS!

MON - SAT 11-LATE
SUNDAY 12-6

Thurs 28th May: Primavera Day 1

Whilst London is tentatively sizing up the summer, the sun is shining out over Mont Montjuic in Barcelona for Primavera. Having lost an assistant to My Bloody Valentine, I wanted to know what was going on at this 3 day, 6 stage music festival!? The line-up looks scarily sizeable, so if I just stick to "S" for Spain ...........some of the acts are Spiritualized, Saint Etienne, Simian Mobile Disco, Squarepusher, Sunn o))) AND Sonic Youth. In addition to these distractions, its located next to a white sand beach with free option to leave and return. Apparently things get going at 7pm and carry on till 7am when the transport links start running again. I hope Camille comes back!

Fingers crossed, we have an inside peak at the proceedings courtesy of music/portrait photographer Dan Wilton who has also split from the smog in search of Europe's finest sound systems. For the first day of his"Uncle Travelling Mack" style contributor status, we have some choice cuts (!) of phone-pic action. Tune in tomorrow to see more direct from the Catalan serving of cutting edge and classical...


http://www.danwilton.co.uk/
http://www.primaverasound.com/

Weds 27th May: Corsetorama

I have to make a corset today.  As you do.  Or don't!  So I'm getting some guidance from looking at a corset kindly donated to me by Alistair Carr from one of his first collections.  Its a hand-dyed and embroidered satin piece with gold matador detailing which I'm scared to hazard a guess at how long it took!  I think the original structure was made for Alistair by Mr.Pearl who he originally trained under.  

Here is another corset that Mr.Pearl made for Alistair as a birthday present in 1997.   It is in the permanent  fashion collection on show at The Royal Pavilion Museum in Brighton.  So I feel very privileged that I have been entrusted with one of these beauties.  But even better that I can use it to continue the flow of work................although I wouldn't want either of them to know that I only have 1 day to make one instead of a few weeks/months!   So here goes..........

To see what else is on show at the Museum :  http://www.virtualmuseum.info/collections/default.asp

Tues 26th May: Dust on The Ground

Since casting her soft touch over my film and subsequent images for Heliocentric Electric, Elisha Smith-Leverock has taken on a new music promo.  Bombay Bicycle Club will launch "Dust On The Ground" on June 29th to follow up the storming "Always Like This".  

Its more like a mini movie clip than your regular music video.  There is something significantly unnerving about Jack Steadman's deep wavering vocals and this has been echoed in Elisha's surreal/mildly disturbing treatment.  (His voice reminds me of the first time I heard Gomez and wrongly assumed Ian Bull was some kind of old time Chet Baker crooner.  11 years later we have another disorientating killer talent to step up and take the mantle.........or sombrero).

I can't wait to see it on the telly but until this time you can check out the director's cut here!  I will be doing a more in depth interview/feature on Elisha's work soon so watch this space..................

Tues 26th May: Raison d'etre

Sunday 25th May: Really, Really Good Looking

SHOWstudio.com have launched a new project titled VMan Model Search.  Any male viewers can enter this competition which will be judged by Nick Knight himself.  The face that fits will win a model contract with Ford Models and will be photographed by Nick Knight and styled by Simon Foxton for the cover of the upcoming VMAN 15.   So if you fancy your chances, the deadline to upload your mug shots or video clips is the 15th June.

Here are a couple of pages from Simon Foxton's sketchbook archive which he kindly sent me once as homework for a props job.  They are various scraps of found imagery that he has collected for his own research.  I am beside myself with excitement (and I know I'm not the only one!) for the upcoming show at the Photographers Gallery.  Penny Martin is curating the show "When You Are A Boy" which will be the first exhibition dedicated to Simon's work.  Yipee!!!!!!!!!!!  Check the deats at the link below:

http://www.photonet.org.uk/index.php?pxid=954