Thursday 18 June 2009

Thurs 18th June: Patrick Wolf USA

Nemone's video of the week on BBC6 Music is "Hard Times" by Patrick Wolf and directed by Ace Norton.  Patrick was introduced to Ace by Marvin Jarret of Nylon magazine and travelled to NYC last month for the shoot, taking with him costumes by Ada Zanditon.  When I watched it, I felt as if I was having a dream where I was on a ghost train with The Triadic Ballet in some otherworldly dimension.  If you haven't seen it yet, watch the clip here:

He is already back in the States aboard the Nylon Summer Tour playing across North America with  an illustration of his face emblazoned down the side of the bus! Having expressed appreciation for my new collection, I have made him a silver shoulder piece which he debuted in L.A, seen here.  Patrick also has an archive of other pieces I have given him in the past, such as this black silk rose broach.  Its so heart-warming to discover that things are still being worn and enjoyed, long after the creation.  Patrick is  a true trailblazer and its an honour to be a contributor to his wardrobe.  I'll never forget the first time I met him and having a quick riffle through his trunk and seeing some original Seditionary Boots!  The boy knows how to dress and has the best dressing-up box to prove for it!

Wednesday 17 June 2009

Weds 17th June: New Gen

Monday afternoon was the announcement of the S/S 2010 winners of the New Gen sponsership from Top Shop for upcoming designers to show at London Fashion Week.  This season the whole event will move from The Natural History Museum to Somerset House.  Sarah Mower has been appointed by The British Fashion Council as the first Ambassador for Emerging Talent.  ..........................So it was a triple combination of exciting components to be part of.  A gigantic celebration and privilege.   The new venue is stunning and I can't wait to spend the week there and get to hang out in this decadent dwelling.  I'm also looking forward to making friends with the new additions to the bill.  I have immediately taken a distinct shine to shoe designer/cordwainer Atalanta Weller who seems rather special!  It is also a unique opportunity to get to know Sarah, who is passionately embracing her role in this enterprise.  For the event she wore this beautiful panelled dress which she told me is by Rita Grave.  Rita just finished her BA at St. Martins so I have dug out my notes from the show to see who she is.  What I had jotted down is "Nice sequin & shine"!  So to find out more I'm going to have to check out the static show to investigate further!  Sarah advised us to wear our own designs to the press launch and here is a snap of the slinky model Ben Grimes in one of her LP.BG's playsuits .

Atalanta Weller
Michael Lewis
Dominic Jones 
Fred Butler

Everyone Else*:
Cooperative Designs
Craig Lawrence
Danielle Scutt
Louise Gray
Mark Fast
Mary Katrantzou
House of Holland
Michael van der Ham
Peter Pilotto

Here is the ever energetic and enthusiastic Barbara Grispini from the BFC with the lovely Peter Pilotto who had oversized poppers on his blazer which I loved!

Beautiful Bavarian Dorothee of Cooperative Designs, diligently dressed in her trademark stripey knit.

Here is Michael Van Der Ham not wearing his own designs.  Now that I want to see!  When I received the instruction to sport you own creations, I immediately text Michael laughing at that vision.  Both him and Craig Lawrence would be a quite a picture!  

*  (I'm only being silly here, not seriously discrediting people who aren't accessories, its just quicker that dividing it up)

Tuesday 16 June 2009

Tues 16th June: Black Gardenia

Last evening Paloma held a soiree to mark the occasion of her 1st single release.  Friends and family got together at The Black Gardenia speakeasy in Soho to celebrate her well-earned success.  She looked gorgeous in a gold sequin dress with fur trim and black outlined eyes with decorative spot patterns, dotted around.  Lewis (K, D & Lewis) spun the tunes, with my favourite being  "Shake Shake Shake Senora" which made me shimmy like Winona Ryder in Beetle Juice.  Apparently "Stone Cold Sober" had reached No. 10 in the download chart at the end of the day, so I can't wait for the official chart on Sunday!  Congratulations to everyone involved!  I remember the day I delivered her an accessory and she just had the good news that she had signed to EMI, so its very proud-making to now see the reality of that opportunity!

Monday 15 June 2009

Monday 15th June: Paloma Faith vs. No Days Off

Today is the release date for Paloma's new single "Stone Cold Sober".  If you have passed through London you will have seen the beautiful candy coloured posters prettying up the streets all across town.  If you haven't seen the imagery yet, here are the highlights of her new art direction by "No Days Off", shot by Finlay Mackay with incredible set design by Petra Stores.   Here are some behind the scenes snaps from NDO HQ with the original advance press copy of the single featuring Andy Macgregor's dove illustration.  This icon was commissioned for her identity as "Paloma" is Spanish for "Dove" or "A meek, mild, dove-like person."  Ms. Faith is rather the antithesis of meek being a natural born performer and is in her element on stage, especially when wearing one of her trademark fantastical costumes.  She will be playing material from the new album at the ICA on June 24th so get you ticket to see for yourself ...................and head to itunes now to download "Stone Cold Sober" to tide you over until then .............
 Finlay Mackay @

Sunday 14 June 2009

Sun 14th June: Brighton Degree Show

On Friday evening I was asked to present the textiles award at Brighton University's runway show as part of graduate fashion week.  Their show was held off schedule at Canary Wharf and the other 2 industry guests in attendance to hand out awards were Avsh Alom Gur and Julien Macdonald.   I will spare details on this part as it was a very surreal experience.  A fantastic and heart warming accolade to have been asked but a bit of a reminder that God did not invent me with personal-appearances in mind.  Infact I actually looked like I had a degenerative disorder with how much my hands were shaking as I tried to open the envelope!
There were a few stand out collections:
Patrick Li - for his metallic applique, rivetting and actual lock-smith hardware incorporated into tailoring.
Hollie Maloney - For digital lines and soundwaves created with inverted panels in knitwear
Alice Burrow - Silver fractal panel accessories, graphic optical print and origami cut outs
James St.Jones - Fragile tape fabric, holographic lame and lace fringing.

Here is James with one of his coats that took 60 hours to make by backing the parcel tape onto calico before weaving the lines and assembling the pattern.   Brighton University has incredible industry links with this year having placements at Bless, Viktor & Rolf, Jonathon Saunders, Proenza Shcouler, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, Marc Jacobs, Zandra Rhodes, Eley Kishimoto.............James who completed his placements at McQueen and Boudicca has entitled his collection is "Tragic Rabbit" .................

"Rabbits on white paper painted outgrow all charms against their breeding wild; & their rolled corn ears become horns.  So watch out if the tragic life feels fine-caught in that rabbit trap all colours look like sunlight's swords & scissors like The Living Lord."  - Stan Rice