Thursday 9th January: LC:M AW14 IN PICTURES- FINISHING TOUCHES: ACCESSORY PICKS - GUEST POST

Multicoloured Scarves at John Smedley 

Chrome Hair Ties seen at Matthew Miller 

Neon Gloves at Alan Taylor

Joyrich x Maripol Backpack Streetstyle 

Military Camping Rucksacks at Bobby Abley

Matching Quilted Backpacks and Parkas at Christopher Raeburn 

Harnesses and Cut-Out Caps at Craig Green 

Alex Mattsson Beanie and Nike Sweatband Streetstyle

Words and Images by Amy Lee

Wednesday 8th January: LC:M AW14 IN PICTURES- FASHION EAST - GUEST POST

From top to bottom; 

Punk poetry and signature Ryling red at Tom Ryling. (Styled by Kim Howells, with set design by Andy MacGregor.)

Industrial influences and roadie references, complete with steelies and gaffer tape at Liam Hodges.

Silicon embellishment and hand printing at Massismo Casagrande.

Masculine shapes and strong symbolism from contemporary mens jeweller Roxanne Farahmand.

Robert Morris inspired shapes, classic winter tones and a hint of school boy charm at Nicomede Talavera. 




Words and Images by Amy Lee

Wednesday 8th January: LC:M AW14 WHAM BAM THANK YA AGI & SAM - GUEST POST

There is no denying that as Agi and Sam closed their AW14 show today by walking the length of the catwalk, they looked positively knackered. They looked so exhausted I was surprised they made it all the way down without keeling over. Bleary eyed under the clinical lighting of the stark showspace- a combination of last minute tweaks and a ridiculously early call time probably allowed for little, if any, chance for kip. However, despite the vacant stares of sleep-deprived pair, they were beaming- huge smiles from both of them, big toothy grins of genuine delight. 

It’s these two telling signs that signify just what a year 2013 was for the duo - busy as hell, but crazy good. Flying the Fashion East nest, producing a sell out range for Liberty, and a collaboration with Topman, all whilst designing their own collection- the boys could probably retire now and still have a list of achievements as long as an arm. Both of their arms even. All four of them. And judging by today’s success, the pair could do with growing a few more upper limbs, ‘cause 2014 is set to be even busier.

Being predominantly a print based label, the pressure is always on for illustrator Sam Cotton, but AW14 delivered.  A monochromatic culture clash saw pieces in thick tablecloth checks and Masai stripes, with the occasional bright thrown in, in the form of box shirts advertising ‘Dick Oil’, adhering to the brands reputation for subtle added humor.

Sam’s intelligent, informed and witty prints adorned Agi Mdumulla’s flawless cuts. This season was no different to any other in that the construction was second to none, the kind of cuts to make your brow furrow because your brain can’t process just how slick they are; oversized, tailored, a-symmetric, sportswear- the skillset demonstrated was vast, and yet the quality never suffered, each new style was as impressive as the last.

Casting and styling was done equally as effectively. Beautiful boys with strong features, all wide eyed and full lipped, wearing angular mound felt hats provided by YashkaThor and Ugg loafers. The complete looks were that of a ready to wear collection that the modern man is so very ready to wear. A shining example of the thinking mans fashion for a cities youth, Agi and Sam succeeded in creating sophisticated and sharp, without compromising that element of playfulness they have come to be synonymous with.



Words and Images by Amy Lee

Tuesday 7th January: LC:M AW14 LONG LIVE JAMES LONG - GUEST POST

One of the most pivotal moments of a catwalk is the pre-show wait. Once you’ve squashed yourself on a row, given the press release the quick once over and instagram-ed the back of Tinie Tempah’s head, there isn’t a great deal to do. It’s at this point that you start to skim the crowd, seeing who’s sitting next to who, checking out who’s wearing what and thanking Jesus you’re not sat behind the gal in the Junya Watanabe head piece etc etc. It was also at this point that I started to feel a tad nervous for James Long, who is now in his 6^th solo season at LC:M. With Sarah Mower heading up the first corner, Long’s blue-headed boys were to then swing a right and be faced with the East End fashion elite, (Louise Gray, Princess Julia and Thelma Speirs amongst them), only to then finish up at the far end where David Gandy on Telegraph reporting duty awaited.  F-Rows aside, looking further back faces were shadowed, but the clothing stood out, and this also spoke volumes on the interest James Long attracts. Astrid, Nasir, Matteson, Squires Agi and Sam were all present in cloth form; adorning the fashion forward patrons of London’s new menswear generation.

As the lights faded, a snippet of Lou Reeds ‘Satellite of Love’ set the scene and bridged the gap nicely between all the 'people watching' and the first of Fudge’s celestial blue barnets bobbing down the catwalk. The soundtrack was perfect and provided a narrative to the way in which the collection evolved- the bittersweet naivity of a young Lou Reed introducing the graphic paneling and primary colours, progressing on to the cosmic techno pop of Is Tropical’s Simon Milner backing the space-age silver quilting. Ultimately amounting to the the suggestive sounds of  ‘Sexy Boy’ by Air, it read like a classic coming of age, and the finale signified a strong, confident and accomplished complete collection.

Described as being built on ‘futurism and abstraction’, the influence of artists and designers such as Balla and Sant Elia could be seen throughout. However, Long’s innovative use of fabric would suggest more of a postmodern mentality where construction is concerned.  By taking a selection of fabrics one would expect to find in an AW collection and applying a variation of techniques, Long’s use of bricolage opens up a whole new array of textures and effects; layering mesh with jersey and weaving ribbon through leather to create multi dimensional textiles. These fabrics were then applied to two staple sportswear shapes that are still showing no sign of getting off the trend bus at Hasbeen Avenue- the bomber and the jogger.  The result is something that’s exciting, fun and alluring, but most importantly, completely applicable to todays fresh crop of male fashion aficionados.

Image and Text by Amy Lee.

Mon 6th Jan: LCM- Topman Design - Guest Post

There was a real sense of irony today as Topman made it rain on the catwalk and referenced Maritime inspired clothing as Britains coasts are being battered by the worst storms in 20 years. John Cooper Clarke's original poem for the collection opened the show being played with his thick northern drawl setting the scene, the catwalk cemented a very bleak grey with sporadic puddles. This all made for a very strong and visual show that gave you want to go forth and defy the elements yourself, the seeming defiance of the setting by the models reminded how we Brits will not be held to the whims of the weather. It was the the PVC bonded edges of the garments and the PVC poncho that made that gave this collection an edge with the overall look showing a more mature direction and polished collection for Topman Design.

All text and images by Will Wyness

Mon 6th Jan: LCM A/W13 - Lou Dalton- Guest Post

                                         

                                         

                                                

                                                

                                               

                                              

Lou Dalton opened London Collections: Men today, the show had an integrity that is all too often overlooked in fashion. Lou referenced where she came from recalling the farm hands and the real working clothes they wore, the choice to reference something so personal resulted in a collection thats subtle nuances clarified why she has become a cornerstone of the fledgling men's fashion week. There is an attention to detail and a concentration on the execution of both the garments and her ideas that help produce something very relevant and desirable. It's the width of a collar, the silhouette of a coat, the way the trouser is cut shorter so it just skims the top of the boot that all enhance her reputation as a designer, with not only brilliant ideas but an intelligent one, that truly considers the form, fit and the invidiual aesthetic of each seperate. It is refreshing in a city obsessed with the obseleting the previous season to see Lou Dalton building a solid brand identity, there's a great sense of integrity in that.

Text and Images by Will Wyness