Saturday 16 June 2012

Saturday June 16th: London Menswear Collections SS13 - Jonathan Saunders

In the midst of a digital pattern boom in London designer's repertoires, one of the capital's founders and most reputed renegade masters Jonathan Saunders presented his menswear collection at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms. The centrally located but secretly hidden tall thin building constructed for scenic painting on theatre backdrops was the perfect setting for Saunders S/S13 spectrum palette.  The frames usually stretched with calico canvases were stripped and hung with poster images from the campaign with models standing in turn infront of the corresponding colour-way.  The Smartie's box palette of primary shades and circular disc repeats,  were finished off at the feet with red soled Christian Louboutin lace ups.  The glass window roof acted as the perfect lighting on the subject with a rare sighting of Summer sun shining straight thru to reflect off the installation silver surfaces and boy's mirror shades.  

Saturday June 16th: London Menswear Collections SS13: Craig Green

Just a quick follow on from Chris Shannons's folklore theme and accessories collaboration with Craig Green to Craig's own collection on display as part of the Fashion East installations today........... (Craig Green film directed by Zoe Hitchen)

Saturday June 16th: London Menswear Collections S/S13: Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon's show is always a highlight for me on the menswear schedule and when the invitation arrived, I knew it was going to be a goody with an image of a traditional folk costume in a modern urban carnival setting.  This theme became apparent as the models appeared one by one in shredded fabric headpieces shrouding their faces, made in collaboration with Craig Green.  In explanation for those of you outside the UK, this peculiar and particular costume is worn by folk dancers in celebration of the summer solstice (and bizarrely the style has more recently been adopted by young travellers in South East-Asia).  Christopher also sites the cosmic 1970's home craft bible "Native Funk and Flash" as a source of inspirational imagery to arrive at this colourful and textured collection.  Here is HARRY UZOKA backstage with the fine detailed 3D floral makeup by Lauren Parsons which continues Christopher's ongoing consideration for beauty to play an intrinsic role in his styling.  The other strong signature element to Shannon's presentations is a banging soundtrack with today's playlist culminating on "Say My Name" by Cheryl Cole .................... which may well be prophetic if this trendsetter's instinct is on track as usual................. lets see if it enters straight to No.1 in today's chart and consider that some of the purchasers will be converted fash pack from Chris's show!
Listen to Christopher Shannon's playlist for Studio Music FM here.
Find out more about the history and modern movement of British Folklore at Simon Costin's site here.

Friday 15 June 2012

Friday June 15th: Happy Birthday Anna Trevelyan

Its the first day of Menswear London Collections and also Anna Trevelayan's birthday who I blog alot on here because I can never get enough of her colour and overall vibe!  Her most recent flame hair by Charlie Le Mindu has magically transformed into a turquoise, violet and pink situation with a return of a fringe since she was a teenager.  Watch this space for the next dye job................ 

Sat June 15th: London Menswear Collections S/S13: A Child Of The Jago - Streetstyle

Here are some of the beautifully attired guests at this evening's Child Of The Jago presentation including Amechi Ihenacho, Cass Lewis, Jordan Bowen (wearing his own hat design), Yu Masui, Diane Pernet fresh from Paris and hosts Karlie Shelley and Jeanette.

Sat 15th June: Menswear London Collections S/S13: A Child of The Jago

Always the most vibrant and atmospheric show of the schedule is "A Child Of The Jago" and this season was no exception as a salon format at The House Of St. Barnabas with models mingling amongst the audience.  Designers Joseph Corre and Barnzley Armitage were on hand to demonstrate the look, fitting the boys into their suits which had laundry bag cheque detail finishing.  Guests were encouraged to try on a big Buffalo style hat from the range and a free-for-all ensued which I got heavily involved in and begrudgingly had to part with my chosen top hat as I left........... see the next post for some examples............ 

Friday June 15th: Central St Martins Graduate Show 2012

Yesterday Kim and I went down to the new Kings Cross campus of Central St Martins for the private view of the graduate show which covered all courses from Fine Art to Textile Futures via Performance Art, Ceramics and all inbetween.  Unfortunately across the board photography was forbidden so I can't share the incredible quality of work that we were totally bowled over by BUT I did capture an essence of the ingenuity and avant-garde foresight in the form of street-style.  Here is Fashion student Victoria whose outfit is the kind of presence that I miss greatly from Charing Cross Road, but colour scheme actually looked perfect against the new school's glass structure.  
The show is open to the public on Thursday so make sure you take the day out to roam the corridors of exceptional exhibits.
My favourite course was BA (HONS)FASHION COMMUNICATION WITH PROMOTION with a class of fascinating new publications - check it out here.

Backstage at Firday June 15th: Graduate Fashion Week Gala: James Walker

It was so exciting being backstage to see the rotation from one stellar collection to the next and having close proximity to give the garms a feel.  Especially this one by James Walker from UCA Epsom which was out of control in the very best way!  Tweed tailoring with a traveling twist - each look incorporated features from function in luggage such as this extendable zipper shoulder jacket. The accordion skirt addition was a cute and cunning twist on classic suiting and all the leather buckle fastenings were exquisitely finished.  This is what a graduate collection should be about  - running wild with your ideas and being the most creative you care to be........... this is your last chance to go bonkers, so do it.............. there is a whole future of fear to calm down and become accessible to sell............. so in the words of Prince "Lets Go Crazy"!!  Well Done James - I would love to see this in an exhibition for more people to have a look! 
Catch catwalk shots over on Vogue to see the whole collection.

Thursday 14 June 2012

Thurs 16th June: Backstage at Graduate Fashion Week Gala Winners: Claire Acton

Here is my absolute favourite collection of the Galla by Claire Acton from The University of Central Lancashire with curby-grip fringes and pop-art style prints.  So, so clever and immdediate - I really want this perspex hairclip necklace! <3

Thurs 16th June: Backstage at Graduate Fashion Week Gala Winners: Fiona Xiaoping Huang

Fiona Xiaoping Huang, from University of Central Lancashire won the Zandra Rhodes Textiles award for these incredible concertina constructed and colour block printed garments - truly unique and beautifully crafted!!