Monday 20 February 2017

Monday 20th February: LFW AW17 - MM6 Maison Margiela

The MM6 Maison Margiela presentation took the form of a shop interior on New Bond Street being decked out with a set to replicate an atelier, a screen-printing studio and a fashion photo studio.  Models wandered between the separate scenarios involved in the activities by either taking part in fittings, constructing garments or posing for a look-book shoot.   All of the real-life actors were so immersed in their jobs that they didn't seem to acknowledge our presence and intrigue.  The rooms were assembled on fake wall "flats" like a TV set so that the doors opened and closed to a void either side.  Although the creative processes were truly happening it was also carefully set up so that the tools on the tailors desk were all white coated in painted muslin.  It was a beautiful realisation of a brilliant idea.  Everyone loves being nosy and this was a perfect cheeky performance playing out how the creative process might be.............. using an AppleMac charger cable as a belt....... 

Sunday 19 February 2017

Sunday 19th February: LFW AW17 - Edeline Lee

One of my favourite aspects of fashion week is the chance to see inside London buildings that I'd never get the chance to view otherwise. Edeline Lee presented her show in the Oxo Tower up a winding staircase filled with the sounds of concert pianist Belle Chen playing on the ground floor.  As the collection was inspired by Dada collage artist Hannah Hock, the set also used the photomontage shapes and colours in painted panels.  As you can see in the last photo there were also screens of film footage looping the same layered atmosphere which was the real icing on the cake of this well constructed experience.   Just the kind of thing I like.............. turning a regular catwalk show format on its head and having fun at the same time.

Sunday 19th February: LFW AW17 - Matty Bovan at Fashion East

 Matty Bovan's section of the Fashion East show held at the Tate with set design by William Farr & makeup by Miranda Joyce.  The collection of hand-crafted knits and crochet is his backlash to mass production of the corporate fashion market.  Matty purposefully pieced and felted panels of end-of-run-yarns to fabricate garments of value and virtue.  These were styled with perspex visors and Bladerunner-esque makeup to create a mash of worlds from the Medieval roots of his home-town York with sci-fi film's dystopian future.  I loved this move into tribal textiles in earth tones from last season's hi-vis palette and pattern.  It's still unmistakably his vision with Fimo & crystal accessories but this time tied up with drift-wood to take it into AW17.
See SS17 here.

Sunday 1(th February: LFW AW17 - Paula Knorr

Paula Knorr who is known for dressing musicians in metallics, incorporated Madsiusovanda's live performance into her AW17 presentation.  As music is intrinsic to her own creative process she used musicians as muse for the collection, capturing the relationship between a body's physicality in playing an instrument.  I love it when a designer goes to the extra effort to involve a live act into a show, so this was a brilliant way to begin the 2nd day of LFW.

Listen to Madsiusovanda on Soundcloud here.

Saturday 18th February: LFW AW17 - Sadie Clayton

Sadie Clayton's copper palette paired with burgandy, nude and black, reflected in the interior of Soho's Sanctum hotel for this season's presentation styled by Kim Howells.  Here are highlights of her signature embroidery from her classic bomber jacket to longer tailored jackets.  The twisted copper wire pattern spiralling in the stitching carries thru to the thread detailing in her new shoe collaboration with Underground.  

Head over to Sadie's site to see past seasons collections here.