Saturday, 26 September 2009
Friday, 25 September 2009
Thursday, 24 September 2009
Just slipping in another print story whilst we are on the subject..............thanks Naomi for all your posting!!!!!!!!!!!..............I had a fantastic seat to appreciate the new "Beyond The Chintz" collection by EK............this season really has been fantastic for colour on the catwalks of London.........yay! Now I just need a printer to print some GBP to buy some of it when it hits the shops!
London switched context this season with many designers opting for a presentation in favour of runway show. David David presented their collection and films in a neat venue in Soho with winding staircases up and down to the different sections. Here is a sexy print slip complete with cut away panels and slatted perspex handbag. I snapped David in conversation with Susie Bubble so check out her coverage as their may well be an interview cropping up..........
Wednesday, 23 September 2009
Digital printing has been a massively under-documented, but hugely important recent textiles development. And the people who have taken this technology and consistently pushed its possibilities to the limits are Bruno Basso and Chris Brooke.
Previous floral and geometric themes had this season given way to a more wibbly wobbly abstraction, sometime mixing the colours in such as way as to resemble oil on water. The colour palette was jewel bright, with amazing sapphires and electric blues dominating some outfits, while others included the entire rainbow spectrum.
Their S/S10 collection kept silhouettes pared down to mini dresses,
. . . narrow full length dresses . . .
. . .Slim suits. (That single breasted jacket which refuses to go away this season) . . .
If like me you want to be a real fashion journalist when you grow up, you’ll need to be good at summing up the essence, the meaning of clothes in few words. Not often though, have I seen a collection which could be so adroitly encapsulated in one single word: Yabadaba-dooo!
Yep, we saw beaucoup de crimped hair, beaucoup de cartoon animal print. Un peu de plastic bones . . .
And very little else.
Monday, 21 September 2009
The party tonight was exciting enough in its own right, what with the likes of Lee McQueen and Nick Knight wandering about, and Penny Martin glam in head to toe in black, ever the hostess with the mostess was almost enough to distract us from the exhibits like . . . . .
. . this enormous 3D triptych of Naomi Campbell, illuminating the entrace and best off viewed from an elevated platform. . . .
Also, a section of films, including Fred's atmospheric contribution representing the nape of the neck . . . and one of Ruth Hogben and Gareth Pugh's fashion films, which originally premiered on the groundbreaking website.
Speaking of which . . .we bumped into the maverick designer himself, and couldn't resist the chance to ask him why he thinks SHOWstudio is quite as fab as we do.
"well, it's Nick Knight, isn't it? The possibility of showcasing fashion through the medium of film is nothing new: that's always existed. But it's Nick who kept on pushing it. Both pushing it as in promoting it, but also pushing it as in artistically - making it more extreme and more ambitious each time. I just think its so important. Its never been more relevant than it is now.
Multi media is very important for designers and although I'm not saying it will replace the catwalk - fashion shows will always be there, they won't be replaced by video but it's a chance for designers to achieve that message in an even more controlled environment than a catwalk show can. It's your chance [as a designer] to get everything perfect"
What can I add to that? Go and see the exhibition. I will do.
G'day everyone! I've received some positive feedback on my somewhat international approach to intros and sign offs for Fred's blog so today in honour of Josh Goot I've instantly become fluent in Ozzy. Good idea, no? This arvo it was my absolute pleasure to attend his SS 10 show in an unassuming venue - the third floor of a multi story carpark deep in the sleazy heart of Soho. As soon as the assembled throngs were in place, and with very little fanfare and no dimming of the lights, the spectacle began. Some people might deduce that a designer choosing to eschew flim-flammery, trimmings and trinkets to such an extent - the hair was almost shower-damp and slicked back ,the faces clean, the shoes high but not to circus proportions, - must be resasonably confident in the impact of their designs alone.
And in my opinion, Goot's sentiment was not at all misplaced. This collection was coherent, clear in its vision and . . . . what're you saying Fred? Colourful? Lets have a look . . . .
This look juxtaposes the three ideas that Mr Goot presented in various forms today.
1) test-card primary colours
2) monochrome in the form of inventive prints
3) Those crayon brights again, but in patterned form
His silhouettes stuck close to the body, in the form of fitted minidresses, cigarette pants and tailored blazers.
This dress was one of the first looks out. Who wouldn't want to wear this? There are the candy hues, but each one seems justified. Other designers just don't seem to know when to stop, piling on print after print until a nosebleed situation occurs but Josh Goot seems to know what he wants, and when enough is enough. Expect Topshp and Zara to follow suit (is that a pun? it wasn't intended)
Quite a number of monochrome pieces were on show today, plus the looks that put the black and white together on the same garment as colours. The geometric nature of the panels and their precise, mathematical vibe put me in mind of Brit-Art icon Briget Riley's work.
Awww mate? This show was a winner. Even when I scour my brain looking for the best quotes from Muriel's Wedding I can't come up with anything that does this show justice. Bravo.
Sunday, 20 September 2009
The loyal Hoggettes were fired up with anticipation, resulting in an atmosphere quite unlike the usual library-like hush of the BFC tents and more like a much-anticipated gig or party about to take off. On her press release Ms Hogg forwent the usual descriptive setting of the scene that you get at most collections to simply thank everyone, saying “the goodwill that pours my way is staggering” and you could absolutely sense that in the space. A collective outpouring of ‘Come on Pam!’ radiated between the concrete pillars.
The collection itself was very slick and gave off a well-organised sheen, a kind of comprehensive, covering-of-all-bases feeling. Starting off where AW 09 left off, with catsuits and body-con dresses featuring her trademark geometric panels. This time round though, the neon colours had been replaced with stark monochrome.
The ‘it’s alright to be tight’ theme progressed throughout the collection, and the colour palette progressed to pastels, then metallics . . .
Finally, a studded section was rounded off with a particularly Billy Idol “It’s a nice day for a white wedding . . .” take on the bridal gown that closes every couture show. Nice twist.
Afterwards I dashed into the crowd, hoping to get a quick quote from Bishi, whose marvellous quiff had been conspicuous in the front row. Somehow she had disappeared, so I had to settle for vox-popping nearby 80's ICON of wonderment, Boy George.
Did he enjoy the show?
“Yes, I think Pam’s great. My favourite part was the Elvis references. Did you notice the Elvis theme running through the collection?”
Only when I looked back at the pictures, George. Will he be channelling any of the ideas shown tonight?
“No way. These clothes are designed for Amazonian women, not the likes of me. Pam’s very good at what she does, which was a sleek, chic and rockin’ collection. I found it to be very commercial”
Yikes! All I can say is, if you’re going to do 80s, you may as well do it right.