Showing posts with label Fashion East. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion East. Show all posts

Tuesday, 14 March 2017

Tuesday March 14th: Matty Bovan for Barbie







Barbie celebrated both her birthday and International Women's Day with a new SS17 wardrobe by Matty Bovan.  The new line of miniature garms were presented with a panel discussion exploring female identity chaired by Susie Lau and premiere of Matty's film made for Barbie GIRLNESS'.  Barbie recently integrated three new body types - tall, curvy and petite and expanded the variety of skin tones and hair styles.  Head to Selfridges for the Fashion East pop-up shop to see these styles and all of Matty's merchandise surrounding the campaign including badges and t-shirts.  Here is one of the outfits with his trademark jewellery and a flower hat seemingly spontaneously borrowed from Barbie's rose & pistachio birthday cake by Lily Vanilli!

(Additional photos by Mitchell McGillvary)

Sunday, 19 February 2017

Sunday 19th February: LFW AW17 - Matty Bovan at Fashion East




 Matty Bovan's section of the Fashion East show held at the Tate with set design by William Farr & makeup by Miranda Joyce.  The collection of hand-crafted knits and crochet is his backlash to mass production of the corporate fashion market.  Matty purposefully pieced and felted panels of end-of-run-yarns to fabricate garments of value and virtue.  These were styled with perspex visors and Bladerunner-esque makeup to create a mash of worlds from the Medieval roots of his home-town York with sci-fi film's dystopian future.  I loved this move into tribal textiles in earth tones from last season's hi-vis palette and pattern.  It's still unmistakably his vision with Fimo & crystal accessories but this time tied up with drift-wood to take it into AW17.
See SS17 here.

Monday, 15 June 2015

Mon 15th June: LCMSS16 - Charles Jeffrey's "Loverboy" at Fashion East








For me, fashion should be fun.  Especially shows.  This is the one chance we have to create an experience to uplift, escape and create a magic special memory.  Not only are there now double or triple the amount of "fashion weeks" per season but also the slots are are so swift that to keep up with the daily schedule is like the manic hysteria of a game of musical chairs.   Run in, plump your rump on a packed pew, get subjected to a blast of moronic music and jump up quick enough to run to the next before it finishes. 
In the past Ossie Clark set the precedent for a happening with dancing models in the 60's / 70's,  and BodyMap brought it thru the 80's with Michael Clark and network of cosmic muses.   Thank fuck there is a glimmer of that flame still flickering, burning bright against the suffocation of the straight up and down sixty second runway.   
Today Charles Jeffrey gave me faith in the future of that legacy with a presentation using his own club-night as the formula.  Models were cast from his Central St. Martins contemporaries, the soundtrack was the DJ spinning live at the centre of the dancefloor catwalk.  The "Loverboy" collection took its name from the night which is held at Lyall Hakaria's "Vogue Fabrics" venue and the production was actually funded from the business's takings.   Under his art direction the interior recreated that underground world, with the trails of bog roll that get stuck to your shoe when you leave the loo.  I hope to God that actually happened when a fashion editor visited today.  If there weren't a few terrified reporters I don't think Lyall would have considered that he'd done his job properly.  And this is why we are London and why the Menswear week is literally called "London Collections".  Props to Fashion East for using The ICA to host this kind of event with its own history of the avant-garde and risk-taking.  
It seems to me that we are celebrating McQueen at the V&A with recreations of his theatrical stagings and simultaneously stamping out any platform to honour his subversive success.  If only the industry could step off its whirling carousel of cramming in these superflurous seasons we might all have a chance to catch up.  Take a breath.  Appreciate clothes that have taken time to be made and want to invest in them as key pieces for a timeless wardrobe...................... agree?  Lets shake on it and have a dance.

Mon 15th June: LCMSS16 - Wales Bonner "Malik" at Fashion East













Wales Bonner was the show I was most looking forward to and it was indeed an absolute winner.  Devised in the galleries of The ICA the choreographed presentation fitted perfectly with artifact props placed to turn the familiar rooms into a new imaginary location.  The collection "Malik" has built on last season's debut at Fashion East, extending to a larger production to show more looks hinged together with her crystallised styling.  On what first glass appears to be a skullcap is actually crafted more like loose jewellery for the crown with links of shells and Swarovskis.  "A Prince found in cowrie skullcap and rare gemstone" explains her press release which also outlines another printed collaboration with Ditto Press & Jamie Reid.  Head over to her site to see more from all of this all-encompassing and thorough vision. 
See last season here.