The backing cloth from the screen-printing tables of Zandra Rhodes studio were used as the set design for her presentation at the ICA Gallery. All the layers of ink and shapes tesselated over time, were a beautiful backdrop to her new AW16 collection of brocade silk fabrics. Her signature metallic swirls are now across suits using "Songket" to complement her soft sheer silhouettes. The "Shimmer & Shine" collaboration with Kraftangan uses this Malaysian textile technique to revive the tradition and bring it to a new market. Songket, also originally worn as head ties and headdresses in Malay ceremonies, has now been reimagined and reworked into Turbans by Piers Atkinson. Jewellry came from Lara Bohinc, glasses by Kitty Joseph and shoes from Nicholas Kirkwood to complete the nostalgic "Global Nomad" vibe with models dancing around the museum gallery setting. Soundtracked by The Broken Hearts, this was the perfect Saturday night 70's style salon soiree for fashion week, thank you Dame Zandra.
Sadie Williams presentation at The ICA "Off-Piste" was a homage to her parent's ski holidays of the 1970's. Padding reminiscent of salopettes and motor racing striped jumpers were accessorised with Timberland boots that had frozen icicle laces. The slalom set design by Jo Bond had a marble pattern painted piste by Safia El Dabi. My favourite piece was this pair of silver patchwork leather ski pants!
London College Of Fashion MA Womenswear held at The Royal College of Surgeons inc. Desiree Slabik, Kirimi Yun and Zhixian Wang. See all designers here.
To kick off LCM A/W 16 The Fashion Space Gallery at LCF opened with Lou Stoppard's curated group show "Mad About The Boy". Split into thematic sections with set design by Tony Hornecker, the exhibition explores fashion's inspirations and fascinations with male youth. This spans history from Buffalo's Ray Petri, thru Jason Evans straight-up portraits to Nasir Mazhar's collections recently worn by BBK. Taped interviews with these artists fills the room with a conversational narration for further insight into how their own teenage experience informs their practise. Christopher Shannon's fluro garms with Judy Blame's plastic accessories are shown next to Mark Leckey's original rave footage "Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore". Lou's knowledge of visual imagery from her SHOWstudio position has a strong presence from Larry Clark to Alasdair McLellan to Tyrone Lebon and Nick Knight's own seminal Skinhead project. Its a free exhibit open to the public with a reconstruction of a Meadham Kirchhoff presentation in the college's ground floor entrance. Open till April, the term is accompanied with a schedule of events - talks, workshops and masterclasses.
