Showing posts with label New Gen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Gen. Show all posts

Friday, 17 February 2017

Friday 17th February: LFW AW17 - Marta Jakubowski













Marta Jakubowski's AW17 presentation with set design by Gary Card and makeup by Lucy Bridge and Jimmy Choo shoes.  A  "metaphorical celebratory rainbow inspired AW17s palette lemon, magenta, neon orange, violet and fire engine red"


Wednesday, 24 February 2016

Wedsnesday 24th February: LFW AW16 - Ashley Williams




Ashley Williams "Extra Terrestrial" show styled by Fran Burns, opened by Adwoa Aboah and Georgia May Jagger, cast by Rosie Vogel - and garment detail from her NewGen stand in the showroom.


Monday, 22 February 2016

Monday 22nd February: LFW AW16 Claire Barrow














I really enjoyed Claire Barrow's take on the Fashion Week formula.   Her presentation was like a satirical pseudo-retrospective exhibition as commentary on the current state of the industry churning over and mis-referencing inspirations.  With a manifesto penned by Reba Maybury outlining this preoccupation it resonated with my recent thoughts that there isn't really any definable style for "our time" because everything is so scattered and washed out. 
Going against the grain of digital technology and technique, Claire got out her brushes and used the giant frames of Elms Elsters Painting rooms to freestyle over 15 foot canvases as her cloth.  Here you can see details of the dresses that she made from this textile named "Dawn Of Man" and "Sphinx".   These fine-art show-pieces were interspersed with a printed and embroidered collaboration with British luxury knitwear brand John Smedley.   Each look had its own label like a museum piece with details of when it was made, materials and title.  So good!
I'm so pleased that LFW still has a nugget of something fun and fresh with this nod to the nostalgia worm-hole that everyone else is getting sucked in to and letting slide.  



Saturday, 20 February 2016

Sat 20th Feb: LFW AW16 Sadie Williams "Off-Piste"








Sadie Williams presentation at The ICA "Off-Piste" was a homage to her parent's ski holidays of the 1970's.  Padding reminiscent of salopettes and motor racing striped jumpers were accessorised with Timberland boots that had frozen icicle laces.  The slalom set design by Jo Bond had a marble pattern painted piste by Safia El Dabi.  My favourite piece was this pair of silver patchwork leather ski pants!

Monday, 15 June 2015

Sunday 14th June: LCM SS16 - Alex Mullins: Bon Mirage, Foam Party










The collection may have been called "Foam Party" but the play on words in the playful set design was piles of upholstery sponge but evidence of bubbles floating around were the spherical pockets.  This motif of SS16 was absolutely gorgeous in the neutral tone twill suits as worn by the designer himself on the day.  My favourite thing about Alex's brand is the bold crossover into fine-art technique which is so fresh and so free.  There is a sense of some other designers playing safe and sticking to reproducing easy pieces to please buyers, so it's a delight to look at these hand-painted details.   Just look at this Breton knit with inked in lines - brilliant!