Thurs 18th June: Patrick Wolf USA

Nemone's video of the week on BBC6 Music is "Hard Times" by Patrick Wolf and directed by Ace Norton.  Patrick was introduced to Ace by Marvin Jarret of Nylon magazine and travelled to NYC last month for the shoot, taking with him costumes by Ada Zanditon.  When I watched it, I felt as if I was having a dream where I was on a ghost train with The Triadic Ballet in some otherworldly dimension.  If you haven't seen it yet, watch the clip here:

He is already back in the States aboard the Nylon Summer Tour playing across North America with  an illustration of his face emblazoned down the side of the bus! Having expressed appreciation for my new collection, I have made him a silver shoulder piece which he debuted in L.A, seen here.  Patrick also has an archive of other pieces I have given him in the past, such as this black silk rose broach.  Its so heart-warming to discover that things are still being worn and enjoyed, long after the creation.  Patrick is  a true trailblazer and its an honour to be a contributor to his wardrobe.  I'll never forget the first time I met him and having a quick riffle through his trunk and seeing some original Seditionary Boots!  The boy knows how to dress and has the best dressing-up box to prove for it!

http://acenorton.com/

Weds 17th June: New Gen

Monday afternoon was the announcement of the S/S 2010 winners of the New Gen sponsership from Top Shop for upcoming designers to show at London Fashion Week.  This season the whole event will move from The Natural History Museum to Somerset House.  Sarah Mower has been appointed by The British Fashion Council as the first Ambassador for Emerging Talent.  ..........................So it was a triple combination of exciting components to be part of.  A gigantic celebration and privilege.   The new venue is stunning and I can't wait to spend the week there and get to hang out in this decadent dwelling.  I'm also looking forward to making friends with the new additions to the bill.  I have immediately taken a distinct shine to shoe designer/cordwainer Atalanta Weller who seems rather special!  It is also a unique opportunity to get to know Sarah, who is passionately embracing her role in this enterprise.  For the event she wore this beautiful panelled dress which she told me is by Rita Grave.  Rita just finished her BA at St. Martins so I have dug out my notes from the show to see who she is.  What I had jotted down is "Nice sequin & shine"!  So to find out more I'm going to have to check out the static show to investigate further!  Sarah advised us to wear our own designs to the press launch and here is a snap of the slinky model Ben Grimes in one of her LP.BG's playsuits .

Accessories:
Atalanta Weller

Michael Lewis
Dominic Jones 
Fred Butler

Everyone Else*:
Cooperative Designs
Craig Lawrence
Danielle Scutt
KTZ
Louise Gray
LP.BG
Mark Fast
Mary Katrantzou
House of Holland
Michael van der Ham
Peter Pilotto
SYKES
Here is the ever energetic and enthusiastic Barbara Grispini from the BFC with the lovely Peter Pilotto who had oversized poppers on his blazer which I loved!

Beautiful Bavarian Dorothee of Cooperative Designs, diligently dressed in her trademark stripey knit.

Here is Michael Van Der Ham not wearing his own designs.  Now that I want to see!  When I received the instruction to sport you own creations, I immediately text Michael laughing at that vision.  Both him and Craig Lawrence would be a quite a picture!  

*  (I'm only being silly here, not seriously discrediting people who aren't accessories, its just quicker that dividing it up)

Tues 16th June: Black Gardenia

Last evening Paloma held a soiree to mark the occasion of her 1st single release.  Friends and family got together at The Black Gardenia speakeasy in Soho to celebrate her well-earned success.  She looked gorgeous in a gold sequin dress with fur trim and black outlined eyes with decorative spot patterns, dotted around.  Lewis (K, D & Lewis) spun the tunes, with my favourite being  "Shake Shake Shake Senora" which made me shimmy like Winona Ryder in Beetle Juice.  Apparently "Stone Cold Sober" had reached No. 10 in the download chart at the end of the day, so I can't wait for the official chart on Sunday!  Congratulations to everyone involved!  I remember the day I delivered her an accessory and she just had the good news that she had signed to EMI, so its very proud-making to now see the reality of that opportunity!

http://www.myspace.com/kittydaisyandlewis

Monday 15th June: Paloma Faith vs. No Days Off

Today is the release date for Paloma's new single "Stone Cold Sober".  If you have passed through London you will have seen the beautiful candy coloured posters prettying up the streets all across town.  If you haven't seen the imagery yet, here are the highlights of her new art direction by "No Days Off", shot by Finlay Mackay with incredible set design by Petra Stores.   Here are some behind the scenes snaps from NDO HQ with the original advance press copy of the single featuring Andy Macgregor's dove illustration.  This icon was commissioned for her identity as "Paloma" is Spanish for "Dove" or "A meek, mild, dove-like person."  Ms. Faith is rather the antithesis of meek being a natural born performer and is in her element on stage, especially when wearing one of her trademark fantastical costumes.  She will be playing material from the new album at the ICA on June 24th so get you ticket to see for yourself ...................and head to itunes now to download "Stone Cold Sober" to tide you over until then .............

http://www.myspace.com/palomafaith

 Finlay Mackay @ santucciandco.com.

Sun 14th June: Brighton Degree Show

On Friday evening I was asked to present the textiles award at Brighton University's runway show as part of graduate fashion week.  Their show was held off schedule at Canary Wharf and the other 2 industry guests in attendance to hand out awards were Avsh Alom Gur and Julien Macdonald.   I will spare details on this part as it was a very surreal experience.  A fantastic and heart warming accolade to have been asked but a bit of a reminder that God did not invent me with personal-appearances in mind.  Infact I actually looked like I had a degenerative disorder with how much my hands were shaking as I tried to open the envelope!

There were a few stand out collections:

Patrick Li - for his metallic applique, rivetting and actual lock-smith hardware incorporated into tailoring.

Hollie Maloney - For digital lines and soundwaves created with inverted panels in knitwear

Alice Burrow - Silver fractal panel accessories, graphic optical print and origami cut outs

James St.Jones - Fragile tape fabric, holographic lame and lace fringing.

Here is James with one of his coats that took 60 hours to make by backing the parcel tape onto calico before weaving the lines and assembling the pattern.   Brighton University has incredible industry links with this year having placements at Bless, Viktor & Rolf, Jonathon Saunders, Proenza Shcouler, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, Marc Jacobs, Zandra Rhodes, Eley Kishimoto.............James who completed his placements at McQueen and Boudicca has entitled his collection is "Tragic Rabbit" .................

"Rabbits on white paper painted outgrow all charms against their breeding wild; & their rolled corn ears become horns.  So watch out if the tragic life feels fine-caught in that rabbit trap all colours look like sunlight's swords & scissors like The Living Lord."  - Stan Rice

Sat 13th June: Heavy Cross

Its just gone up on youtube so I can share the wealth of the gold-mining glittering spectacular that is the new Gossip video, styled by Nova Dando with the help of our L.A counterpart Brian Lichtenberg.  Here is a phone pic of Beth wearing a specially made headpiece by Nasir Mazhar and my gold discs on her wrist.  Nova had to pack and schlep the whole metallic wardrobe over to the West Coast for the shoot.  I would love to have seen a security scan of those bags!  

Friday 12th June: We are only humans

I headed back to Dalston (against the advice of that terrible Razorlight song) for Tara Darby's new exhbition "We Are Only Humans".  I lived and worked in Dalston in the early 00's and I can't believe how much its changed since that time due to the railway refurbishment.  Its under going a major face-lift and looks like the Dozer's building site from Fraggle rock with the criss cross of crane's in the skyline.  

So luckily, the fast pace process and its inhabitants have been documented to capture this time in history and the evolving dermographic gear shift.  The gentrification from Bishopsgate is sweeping East like the locust plague and there is no going back.  But far be it from me to comment on this, I guess I have played my part.  (This blog is not a place to get political.........).

There is a mini upshot from the hole in the ground that has appeared on the high street.........its opened up the front of Tara's studio block so that the sunshine streams in the front windows.  The exhibition is in the downstairs gallery and it was a magic evening for all her friends, colleagues and subjects to congregate to celebrate the launch.  As always her images are beautiful and a great opportunity to see them in large print (with help from Touch Digital).  There is even a poster reproduced which I have put straight up in the studio..........

Congrats Tara, keep up the good work and finding time to maintain your personal projects and share them........

miniaturelove.blogspot.com//

Friday 12th June: Venice Biennale by Anna Leader Final Installement

"And Wolfgang Tillmans .... was Wolfgang Tillmans"

So here ends Anna's thorough reportage from the Venice Biennale, thank you so much!

For some properly good photography:

http://www.annaleader.com/

Thurs 11th June: Holly Macdonald

My longest standing (long suffering) assistant to date, is Holly Macdonald who has spent the last year finishing off her degree in fashion product design at LCF.  Holly is reliably categorically hilarious and never turned down an opportunity to get dressed up in the name of research.  The only time I sensed a snapshot of shyness was when I packed her off to a casting for a Metronomy video and she returned shaking with a four pack of Fosters to get over the ordeal.  Although on that particular occasion she could not be convinced to shake her tail feather ..........I know a man that could possibly tempt her ...............the girl is obsessed with Prince.........

Q:  Inspiration?

A:  Christopher Kane for his constructed textiles, Jenny King for her embroidery, my sister for her ability to make scraps look beautiful, my mum* for her stock, you for aesthetic and technique.................I have a texture fetish?

Q:  Favorite Material?

A:  Vintage parachute silk.

Q:  Dream Client?

A:  Prince.  Tee hee any excuse.  I could make him something fabulous and purple?

Q:  Whats Next?:

A:  Something where I can talk ALL day  

*  Holly's mum is an exceptional Vintage Clothing/Textiles trader who can be found at Portabello Road Market, London and Snoopers Paradise, Brighton

Images of Holly's sketchbook, accessories collection as modelled by Addie and self portrait (you have to turn you head upside down to see hers............)

Wednesday 10th June: GFW guest posting by Naomi Attwood

Whilst I was East, Naomi Attwood ventured west to report for me on Graduate Fashion Week.  I met Naomi when I went to give a lecture at LCF to the MA journalism class.  She writes for the college publication Pigeons & Peacocks aswell as listings website LeCool .................

Ravensbourne College GFW Show ‘09  Tuesday 9^th June

Now off to Graduate Fashion Week in Earls Court, which is lovely – a great big auditorium, a lot less squashed than most of the venues at LFW proper and tiered seating, resulting in minimal neck craning for a clear view! Perfecto. A half hour spectacle, starting promptly no less, with 20 Ravensbourne graduates showing their collections back to back. This meant one could take on each designer’s big idea from a small but perfectly formed presentation before bam! The music changed and out came the next one.

So far so good, but what of the collections? Up first was menswear from Calum Harvey, who’d mixed materials such as tweed and plaid into his suiting, with several stand out jackets constructed from tulle layers or even wool pom-pomming for a huge collar.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada style crazy shapes came from Kasia Bishop – including a beautiful ruffle-trimmed heart shaped dress in banana yellow.

Printing was a strong theme to emerge, from the paintbox-like pieces from Laura Yiannakou, who mixed grey garments with multi colours, splashes, streaks, stripes and scribbles all accessorized with double belts creating an obi silhouette.  

Illustrational prints were the focal point of Yasmin Siddiqui’s collection. The outfits were completed with stiff (canvas?) tabards printed with swirling black drawings which fastened at the back with giant bows and were styled with bright tights. Hayley Crompton followed a similar theme; monochrome prints resembling intricate woodcuts with primary splashes and yet more brilliant bright tights and shoes.   

Sian Lendrum’s collection was a parade of kimono like dresses, each in a different jewel bright hue, electric blue, violet, lime, - with a sheer black over shirt which gave an iridescent, beetle-like quality to the bold structural shapes.

Knitters were well represented and among the best of the show – Ruth Green with her stripey concoctions of fine and thick knitted dresses and leggings, Ayano Moriwake with multi-coloured, multi-patterned sweater dresses capes and cardigans. Analisa Dunn is a tutor on the course and even before I’d gleaned this piece of information the influence of Co op designs was quite evident.

Closing the show was another knitter, Hannah Taylor with her men’s jumbo sweaters and cardigan coats, each featuring fox and dog motifs and ingeniously styled with an enormous pom-pom headpiece complete with fox mask, plus other models in rainbow balaclavas and glittery winkle pickers. Her collection provided a peep into a wacky canine world, and ensured no one left the auditorium with out a smile on their face.

After the show there was time for a quick chat with frazzled looking Susie Bubble who has been going flat out with blanket coverage of GFW from her Style Bubble cubicle whilst trying to cram in her DAZED work between the shows. Phew! Susie agreed that Calum Harvey and Hannah Taylor had been the stand-out contributors to the show, although the standard was very high and it’ll be a surprise if some of the names don’t crop up at London fashion weeks in the future.

Wednesday 10th June: Jeanette's Block Party

Last evening London had a good taste of a proper block party with rum, reggae and latterly a police presence complete with purple plastic gloves as a prerequisite for a fashion party.  But the boys in blue didn't stop the city's fashion folk from enjoying themselves.  It was quite possibly one of the best 'do's' Ive been to, with the most people-watching fodder you can cram onto one cobbled street.  I intelligently forgot to charge my camera battery so missed capturing  the whole thing............... but I should think that Mandi will have it locked down, judging by her continual Nike manicured camera clicking.........

But I did manage to get these snaps of Louise Gray, who is selling at the shop (see dress below).  Here is also stylist Richard Sloan who moon-lighted as security, since London's resident door-whore is now the proprietor of his new namesake store (see neon sign).  Congrats Jeanette, its a beautiful boutique and one of the best openings I ever been to in London!  

Thanks to Tom for the invite to see Judy Blame's pieces now on sale at both Jeanettes and Child Of The Jago as of this week.  I think my favourite piece in the store was a black and white hand-sewn dress by Jessica Ogden...............to see for yourself go to:

Entrance at Club Row
64-66 Redchurch Street
London E2 7DP

Opening hours:
Wed - Fri 11 am - 7 pm
Sat - Sun 11 am - 5 pm

http://jeanettesshop.blogspot.com/

http://blogs.colette.fr/mandi/

Wednesday 10th June: Venice Biennale by Anna Leader Part III

"Representing New Zeland was london based artist Francis Uprichard whose exhibition entitled Save Yourself was a visionary landscape, alluding to the hallucinatory works of medieval artists like Hieronymus Bosch and Erasmus Grasser. The small scale sculptures were searchers, dreamers, dancers – consumed by acts of meditation or lost in reverie. Placed on table-like wooden platforms they overtooked the chambers of the slightly decadent Palazzo Mangilli-Valmarana allowing one to observe them at close hand."

"In a perhaps similar vein was Hans-Peter Feldmann's collection of automated bits of found objects that moved creating shadows on the opposing wall giving a totally new narrative. "

http://www.annaleader.com/

Tuesday 9th June: Lauren Laverne is a living legend

(Lulu Guinness / Adam Wright automated birdcage bag with gold embroidery by Hand & Lock)



Last night I had the privilege of attending the 20th anniversary of Lulu Guinness at the V&A on behalf of Bishi who kindly gave me her ticket.  She had been invited by Lauren Laverne who was hosting the evening which was also the announcement of Lulu's Scholarship for the MA Artefact Design at LCF.  (This is a fantastic course taught by another mentor of mine, milliner Dai Rees).

I decided to deal with my debilitating shyness and introduce myself to Miss Laverne to thank her and also give her one of my accessories.  Not only was she totally down to earth, and gracious..........she was also genuinely grateful.  30 mins later I looked across the lawn and she had already put the clip straight in her hair.  It was quite a moment for me.  One of the only things that gets me through working the weekends, is her radio show on Sat afternoon.  Her voice has got me through the hard/dark times and now she is wearing the fruits of that labour!  Incredible.  No wonder she is such an authority on culture as she was earnestly inquisitive, asking me about my new projects without any prompting (not that would have happened anyway with my monosyllabic attempts at conversation!).  However, she was already up on my work from researching Bishi's wardrobe for the feature that she has written about upcoming female musicians in today's Grazia.   Here is Bishi wearing the gold peacock I made her for Salome.

A few of the other singers from the shoot attended the event..........here is Little Boots who I finally met with her stylist Stevie Westgarth.   When I spoke to my mum afterwards and tried to explain that Little Boots had been borrowing some of my accessories, she replied "oh you mean Victoria whats it.........whats it.........whats it.........Hesketh, yes Ive been reading about her".  Classic.  My mum is more on the ball than I give her credit for!  I hope I'm as up on youth culture when I'm of a certain age.............not meaning to write-off 60+ here!  Quite the opposite.  Respect.