Sun 21st Feb: Cooperative Designs by Jez Tozer

PHOTOGRAPHY JEZ TOZER
MILLINERY NOEL STEWART FOR COOPERATIVE DESIGNS
NECKLACES & PATCHWORK TOP FRED BUTLER

(all will be revealed here or tomorrow or read an abridged report at my blog on The Daily)

Sun 21st Feb: Crystals 'n' tings

Here is the original post that I wrote for the London Fashion Week Daily Blog which I just have to wait 24hrs to reproduce so please pretend its late Friday night when you read it! 

"So here I am tapping away, having sped home Annika-Rice-style to write up the Swarovski/VOLT/FTAPE event before my blogging carriage turns back into a pumpkin.  Its been a long day but incomparably epic, in comparison to some of my other friends who attended.  Both Hannah Marshall and Gemma Slack had their presentations earlier but still looked suitably spectacular, shimmering under the jewell encrusted lights.  Craig Lawrence also pitched up after previewing his new glistening metallic knits at a film screening within the vaults of Somerset House.  8 designers trademark techniques had been individually implemented into artworks using Swarovski components on large-scale Volt magazine covers.  Each statement piece contrasted the others in harmony with carefully conceived and arranged crystal constructions and constellations.  The roster of contributors had been equally curated with considered choice to bring together and support emerging names in London's clique.  Volt’s driving force is to unearth genuine talent on the cusp of recognition and is disinterested in the current climate of fame focused fashion features.  In the same vein the private view was patronized by freinds and faithfull followers such as stylist Kim Howells, designer NOKI and musician ROWDY SUPERST*R. However, don’t let my pap of Little Boots throw you off scent……..she was about to pull a secret-squirrel Superman stunt, and change into a ladybug fancy dress costume to dj at a friend's animal theme party in the East End’s Shacklewell Arms……..it doesn’t get a lot more real than that!  Bless London, bless Bootsie."

(top to bottom: Hannah Marshall/Kim Howells/NOKI/Rowdysuperst*r, Little Boots, Craig Lawrence & Liz, Gemma Slack & jeweller Katie Rowland, Katie Eary in her own design, artwork by me & Hannah Marshall)

Sun 21st Feb: Louise Gray Presentation in the Portico Rooms

Here she is................where?............which one?...............where's Wally?.........where's Gray?...............yup its difficult to tell as Louise's casting and styling this season swung in favour of girls resembling herself..........her most evident and intrinsic self promotion.............she lives and breathes her own unique mish mash fun style and joy de'vivre.  With no Tony Horenecker on hand for assembling set design this time, Louise undertook making and decorating her own carnavalesque cut-out vignette flats.  "Quilt Me, Change Me" any way you want me..............how refreshing to have an upbeat, interactive exchange .................this is how to do it!

(Louise in centre in final image..........and above, Jeanette on the decks...........who will be showing as part of Fashion East on Menswear day)

Sun 21st Feb: Michael Van der Ham @ Fashion East

I was positively beaming with joy at The Fashion East show as I was so surprised to be in there.  As readers know, I have a vested interested in Michael Van der Ham, but not enough claut to warrant legitamate entry to his show.  However yesterday my angels formed an alliance up in the sky and I was smuggled into the labyrinth cellars of Somerset House.  I bopped down in the arches to keep a low profile but of course thats not easy with a menagerie in your mane (as caught by the lovely Diane Pernet).  As the lights went down and bass kicked in, I was sat front row and poised ready like a proud mum, unashamedly ready to point at the 1st girl out and elbow the editor next to me.

SO..........onto the most important thing THE CLOTHES..........

Michael has never seen anyone seam together soft sheers and bulky Boucle before, so he set about figuring it out.  He selected new materials to experiment in his patchwork pattern cutting with panels that look like large daubs of painted brush strokes.  The toiling process can be an expensive one, having to use the final fabrics in some instances to really gage the exact combination.  This season Michael mixed up organza Gazar with mohair and struck out on a knitwear tip, collaborating with designer Morgan Oliver.  He commissioned his ex CSM classmate to knit necklines and individual sleeves for him to graft on delicately pleated silk shoulders.  The grey and navy yarn yokes were hacked into with punchy fuchsia pinks, sophisticated zingy coral and precious jewel jades.  Here lies another of Michael's accents of mastery...........the fusion of fabrics that straddle the precarious causeway of accepted taste.  In his own words it could be gross in a gorgeous unexpected way or simply just gross.  That essence is the key ingredient in the recipe for a Van der Ham masterpiece.  This season it stepped up a level with the ingenius idea of approaching his stockist to provide the material for the jigsaw pieces.  When your relationship is with a national treasure such as Liberty this can only give way for a stunning string to your bow........and I suspect the fantastic support of Yasmin Sewell may have had a oar in this floral fusion.

The models coursed down the narrow runway billowing with Italian jaquard weave silk trails as styled by Claire Richardson.  Swarovski crystals shone out of the final two looks, which is the third and final first for Michael.  The iridescent pendants were sunk into heavy weight wool, nestling neatly in pockets  of prism reflecting raindrops.  Considering the unquantifiable expectation and anticipation on Michael's offering this season, I think it is unquestionably a bloody great success!  In the seemingly shortest of short seasons, he has undertaken his first ever feat of production and produced an entire fresh collection.  He has embraced the limelight by grabbing hold of it and running back to his studio to transform it into a new batch of blinding dresses to blast away the industry's critics breathing down his neck.  All of this hard graft and he still manages to politely return calls to individual sample requests or deliver quotes as he is in charge of his own PR.  

Go Michael, go go go go............you are literally living your own dream and deserve every moment of glory..........

Watch a video of the show here

 

Sat 20th Feb: Sophie Hulme AW 10

The girl done good............AGAIN...........in the beautiful Elms Lesters Painting Rooms.........

(Ive only photographed the key accessories as that is my bag...........but there was a 24 piece collection of covetable wool coats with perspex polka dots, brass armoured blazers and bow front satin dresses..........)

Sat 20th Feb: Think Tank

New Tank Mag Milinery Madness

Clockwise:  Fred Butler (me?!), J Smith Esquire, Charlie Le Mindu, Piers Atkinson

Photography: Errol Rainey Styling:  Pandora Lennard

Sat 20th Feb: Le Mindu, Hair Stylist to the stars..........and Universe alike

This time last year I fell in love with the sheer magic, mystery and marvellous creations of Le Mindu.  I found myself an hour later in Franks, forcing the press release on a Russian Vogue assistant insisting she call in these works of art.............

...............only one 36o degree spin of the earth in 365 days, and the globe has woken up to his genius.  I wouldn't have missed today's unveiling for the world and pleasantly surprised at the sparkling crystals scattered from the hats, down the hair and across the mask makeup to invent one entire covering ..........all styled to perfection by Anna Trevelyan.  

Here is that cheeky chappy Charlie with his Angels, Sue Denim and Dee Robot a.k.a Robots In Disguise

Fri 19th Fe: Home From Home

This is where I will also be contributing content this week..............ch ch ch check it out.......also have a look at the new BFC Blog Portal...........

Thurs 18th Feb: MJW at LFW

Here is Miss Jacqueline White  at her London Fields studio when I stopped by earlier in the week to see her amazing space.  She has transformed a glass box into a really fun habitat as the HQ for her styling and designing enterprise.  From the outside it looks like a futuristic shop front and for fashion week she is going to be taking up residence in another shop window ...........stitching live whilst selling her line as part of an alternative event in Soho alongside other designers such as Alexandra Groover, Maaike Mekking, WeAreAllInOne and The Broken Hearts...........

After the shows at Somerset House, head down to Beak Street to catch up with the different activities, exhibits, events and performances curated by WeKnowWhatYouDidLastNight...........

Thurs 18th Feb: The Love Thing

The LOVE Thing from LOVE on Vimeo.

Here is the beautiful Bishi shot against a very "Bishi" backdrop of the wallpaper at The Electric cinema on Portabello Road.  We took seats in the comfy cinema to preview the new Love Magazine trailer on the big screen with an introduction by the creative director Katie Grand and star Pixie Geldof.    This 1min motion advertisement, directed by James Lima focuses on Prada pre-fall looks..........and it is through Miuccia Prada that Grand first met James when he shot a previous Prada short "Trembled Blossoms".  James is known for his experimentation in computer graphics and you can see that he has literally gone to town in this project filmed in NYC:  

"I love telling visual stories using technology.  Still life comes alive with movement and emotion - it is very intimate and powerful.  I call it 'Motiontorial', and it has the potential in the fashion industry to be very similar to what happened in Hollywood with the introduction of sound to silent films." 

Its brilliant that a fashion film now has the weight to be shown in this setting and I can't wait for the day when this kind of event becomes the norm............as it is already heading that way....

For anyone wondering, the soundtrack is by Steve Mackey  - "A/B Machines" by Sleigh Bells

Weds 17th Feb: O to the M to the G-A-G-A The Lady's in my hat!

Thanks to Elisha and Rowdy for waking me up in the middle of the night with this exciting image.  Being 2 of my closest collaborators they recognised the nimble fingers behind this hilarious hat that I made on commission for Gaga to wear in her new Telephone video with Beyonce.

Thanks Nicola Formichetti for supporting new British Designers..........I think the whole of London are at her beck and call.............."call" being the operative word with this crazy telephone hat..............(sorry for the bad joke...........i won't be giving up the day job!...........and what a magic job when I'm asked to design and make things like this!)

For anyone intrigued as to the exact style of receivers that i sourced to implement.................... it is a couple of "Trim" phones that I dissected from a fantastic company Abdy Retro Telephones.

Another image found by Holly on Gagadaily

Tues 16th Feb: Fashion 156 Preview

Thanks to Fashion 156 for the sneak preview shots of my new pieces made with Rosy Nicholas...............

Tues 16th Feb: More Rainbow Cake

Lily Vanilli has uploaded the recipe that she devised for my rainbow cake so that everyone can give it a try...........here is Jess Meek's loaf tin version.........just look at those vivid colours!

Today is Shrove Tuesday..........I have seen a rainbow batter, pancake tower photo bounding around various internet portals, so if anyone gives it a whirl, please let me know the outcome!

Mon 16th Feb: Valentine Fayre

Lots of LOVEly artists gathered together at Jaguar Shoes on Sunday for a love-in and general touting of their wares......Valerie Phillips, Daisy De Villeneuve, Andrew James Jones.........and here we have snaps of 

Verity Keefe:  "I LOVE CMYK" canvas bags and "Pets of the Day" screen print

Hannah Waldron:  "Today I Am A Polar Bear" pin badges/finger puppets

Rosy Nicholas:  Rude Wrapping Paperand Valentine Gift Cards

Mon 16th Feb: Meghan

This present is a print that Tara Darby kindly gave me last month which I have been so overwhelmed by that its taken this long to know howto say thank you.  As you can see below its still not up on the wall and still in its packaging.  Its called "Meghan"  2008 and from her most recent exhibition (see 2nd image)  at Aubin & Wills.

As it is a picture of a sleeping girl I have propped it up on my bed for the time being, before it finds a proper position and rightful place.   Whilst papping this pic, I also documented another generous gift to me............the best breakfast in bed Ive had from my flatmate which I woke up to on Valentine's day.  Thanks Anna.........you don't have to wait for another special occasion to repeat the performance, any day will do...................haha!