Sun 25th Jan: Portrait Profile Weekender Part 4

To finish off, here are a couple of portraits of one of Tara's muses Sylva Kay who is a singer and the subject of her upcoming show at the Future Homes Gallery on Andrews Rd. Sylva will be performing at the private view on Feb 5th under the guise of IC with her musical partner Kevin Cormack a.k.a Half Cousin. Together they create "intimate, minimal songs........ a collaboration with krautrock, alt pop, new wave and dance music, creating something sensual, driven, and buzzing with flair".
As part of this group show, Tara is also going to be previewing a short film called 'Access Every Sparkle'. To check out Tara's new work, head east to Broadway market where she is exhibiting alongside another one of my favourite photographers fresh back from NY Annie Collinge..

Sun 25th Jan: Portrait Profile Weekender Part 3

Tara sent over some scanned Polaroids and an unpublished favourite shot from "Fleeting Sky" which was a shoot in the previous issue of Amelia's Magazine (a collaboration with stylist Milena Silvano). The story was inspired by the Ecofeminist Julia Butterfly Hill who spent some time campaigning for a forest's protection by living at the top of a 600 yr old Redwood tree. For Tara's shoot, set designer James Hatt designed and built their very own tree house with recycled old doors and windows,packing crates and pallets.





some images from The Fleeting Skies shoot I did for Amelia, polaroids and an image that did not get used

Sat 24th Jan: Portrait Profile Weekender Part 2

Stu Stu Studio.

When I ask people to contribute pictures for my entries I always ask for a snap of their working studio as I am fascinated in discovering different interpretations of space and accumulation of paraphernalia. (It was this theme in my work that Tara and I once collaborated. For the Kickers X Project I collected belongings from each designer to use within the prop styling.) Most people selectively ignore this request which i presume is down to a self conscious fear of sharing the reality of their tidiness!
Refreshingly, Tara responded and here is a photograph of her studio which even she had to mention is "a bit messy"! Woops, if that's messy, mine is Armageddon in comparison!
The other 2 pictures are of Roger Hiorns' studio which are unpublished out takes from when she took his portrait for GQ magazine. I have to confess that I am not familiar with his work so in a "Through The Key Hole" manner I had to think "Who could possibly live in a house like thiiiias?" from decoding his collectables. As it transpires he is actually an artist known for his "exceptional use of unlikely materials: detergent, disinfectant, perfume, fire and copper sulphate crystals. Transforming steel poles, car engines and cardboard architectural models into crystalline forms, Hiorns effects surprising, physical and aesthetic transformations on found objects".
(www.artangel.org.uk)

Sat 24th Jan: Portrait Profile Weekender

I am going to dedicate this weekend solely to photographer Tara Darby and her portraiture which I am a massive fan of. I recently saw a front cover on the magazine rack, and thought to myself, Christ that is the best picture Ive seen of that musician to date. As no surprise I turned to the credits and saw that it was by Tara.
There is an ease and peace in her portraits which allows the subject to show a side more personal than regular press shots you grow accustomed to. She has an ability to unearth an interaction that gives the images a magical integrity. Tara's body of work includes legendary creatives such as Karl Largerfeld, Vidall Sassoon and Robin Day through to new interests such as Katy Perry, Bat For Lashes and Alexa Chung. The extensive archive is divided across commissions in music, fashion, political news and then onto personal subjects and books.
It is a personal project that I have picked up on here because it is one of my faves trawling her website and one that has popped up on her blog. I got in touch with Tara to contribute some pictures for this feature and she explained "I have several muses that have become friends who I photograph over and over- the first few images are of artist Delaine Le Bas". This artist really appeals to me as it seems that she unconsciously matches her clothes to her artwork and the aesthetic is totally unconcious and unique. Her wardrobe is a real mix of heavily embroidered and appliqued dense coloured garments of varying genres. The other thing I like in this series is the indications of their time spent together with tea, biscuits and Easter bunny napkins caught in still-life shots.

Friday 23 Jan: Shiny Happy People

Whilst the menswear shows are galloping along across the pond, there were new collections previewed in London on Wednesday night from the LCF MA Fashion Design and Technology graduates. Unfortunately I couldn't go and these jpegs jumped straight out of the press release folder to make me even more remorseful for missing the showcase. If I were a man this would be my dream tailoring and it seems I'm not alone as Rohan Kale won the On|Off Reinvents prize . What luxurious use of pattern, colour and fabric. On second thoughts, when has gender ever swade my sartorial decisions?! I would definitely rock one of these suits given the chance!

Friday 23 Jan: LOOK BOOK

My S/S 09 look book designed by "No Days Off".
As photographed by Amy Gwatkin on the wall of the "Mishkin" studio who shot the images.

Friday 23 Jan: Studio Space Available

The criminally stunning studio of "No Days Off" currently have a transition of tenants and a desk space available to rent. I tend to get the fear at the prospect of having to leave my own studio to travel anywhere for a meeting and abandon my sewing machine. But the exception to the rule is any invitation to visit Teo and Pat at their new HQ in Aldgate. The space is a hive of busy bee creative spaces, situated in a converted block of shipping containers. It is so snazy, as I sit and drink tea from a Pantone mug, looking out the port hole window at the view of Canary Wharf and London's crazy skyline, I romanticize about working there myself. The fact they wouldn't let me within 5 yards of the place due to my intolerable messy antics of hand-dyeing and deluge of giggly work experience entourage is another matter!
If you are looking for a new year switch of residency and an enticing destination to have reason to jump out of bed in the morning, check the stats:

Details
• Available immediately
• £260 per month inclusive of all bills
• High speed broadband
• Sharing with three friendly designers
• Spacious studio with loads of natural light (and great sunsets). Room to store books on our shelves if needed.
• Pinchin Street Studios is a five storey environmentally friendly building made from recycled shipping containers. Our studio is on the third floor. There is access via a central staircase and a lift. There is a plant nursery on the roof, surrounding a small open area that can be used to sit and have lunch at, for drinks, or just to look out over the fantastic views of the city. It's only 5 mins walk from Aldgate East, Aldgate, Whitechapel, Tower Hill, Tower Gateway or Shadwell, so there's lots of choices for nearest tube. It's also close to Brick Lane and all the shops and bars and curries you could ever need. Here's a map:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=4+Pinchin+St,+London,+Greater+London,+E1+1SA&sll=51.511437,-0.064644&sspn=0.011298,0.028582&ie=UTF8&ll=51.51793,-0.060425&spn=0.011297,0.028582&z=14&iwloc=addr&source=embed






Patrick Duffy
--
No Days Off

+44 (0)20 7488 9008

Thurs 22nd Jan: Incoming post from illustrator/animator Morgan Lloyd who travelled from NYC to Washington for the inauguration.

Does anyone remember Uncle Travelling Mack from Fraggles Rock? I used to love it when they read out his postcards from world adventures so in a similar vein I asked Morgan to cover the happenings for my blog. He has written a detailed description of his day as a Londoner transplanted into this historical event. Instead of trying to interpret his 1st hand account, I have used his original version but edited it down (sorry Mo!).

"
Everyone LOVES Obama... Bush and Cheney were seriously boo'ed when they appeared on the Jumbo-tron (the big screens), that was very funny. When Obama was sworn in everyone went ape-shit, people hugging and kissing. His speech went down very well, people were crying.

We got there at 9:00am and it was rammed then and we were a mile away from the preceedings! Everyone was in a very good mood. Some people had tickets to watch the inauguration seated up-close (see photo of ticket). But the people in the purple section (25000 of them) were refused entry because somebody jumped over the barriers and security became paranoid.

I loved the crap that was being sold on the streets, (see pic of glasses). So many stalls selling the usual flags, t-shirts, posters, plastic wallets with Obamas portrait. Tyler bought a $20 watch with a face the size of a jam lid with fake diamonds encrusted all over it with Obamas face looking proud. It's very cool. Flags, american ties, socks, underwear, sportswear anything you want... all Obama!! Apparently, this was unique, Bush and Clinton never had such tacky crap in tribute to them.

Everyone went on partying afterwards. The mood was great, everyone was so chuffed to be free from Bush and doubley chuffed to have gained an inspirational leader. When we were in the restaurant getting some food after our 8hr standing in the cold, the parade was being shown on the TV's around the bar, whenever Obama was on the screen everyone would scream with pride. People who didn't know you would grab you and hug you and hold your hand while they stare you in the eyes smiling, holding back their tears. Just when he appeared on TV. When he and Michelle got out of their Limo to wave at the crowd the bar was deafening.

"

Thurs 22nd Jan: Handsome Prints

This morning I came across the most impressive topiary Ive witnessed outside of a stately home. The beautifully carved beast reminded me of a scary pop-up Edward Gorey book I had when I was a kid. Funnily enough I was visiting the home of another illustrator and it has brought about some exciting news to share. If you have any pennies stashed in a piggy bank, the best thing to do is follow my advice and smash the cochon open. Jim Stoten who is the next generation's answer to Alan Aldridge is currently doing a special sale of his limited edition prints. When I saw his last exhibition I had to shed a tear at the idea of buying one of his artworks was as much fantasy as the content of his surreal sketches. But no! There is a chance! This selection were originally priced at £85 each but now reduced to £30. ..........
...just go to the shop section ..http://jimtheillustrator.bigcartel.com/. This picture is for you to see what they look like framed and how you need one on your wall! Invest now, laugh later!

Weds 21st Jan: Kentish Town, Kentish Town yes, Kentish Town, Kentish Town, No!

Upcoming show at my local gallery Spring Projects:

The Good, The Bad, The Belle
Alice Hawkins and Barnaby Barford

Spring House, 10 Spring Place, London NW5 3BH

The exhibition runs from the 27th February to 5th April 2009
Gallery open: Tuesday – Wednesday 10am – 5pm
Thursday – Friday 12pm – 7pm, Saturday 11am – 4pm
Damaged Goods will be screened in Spring’s cinema on Saturdays throughout the exhibition.

The obvious bonus of living round the corner is being able to get to early-bird call times for shoots in the studios.
The other bonus is a guilty confession. It came about at the particular event of the infamous LFW POP magazine party 2 years ago when the cloakroom was raided. Every fashion editor, photographer and model who attended lost their coats. All apart from me and my guest because we walked through the February frosty night in our frocks. Not good karma to gloat I know, but we were grateful for fate in our favour on that cursed night!

Tues 20th Jan: Mission Impossible

My studio mate Andy Macgregor spent a few days collecting colourful objects to comprise the following colour wheel advert for a new Guardian career campaign. I had to forcibly restrain myself from peaking into the shopping bags to check our the goodies that kept arriving with teasing snippets poking out the top. I am nosy by nature and colour obsessed so the combination was too much to handle. So thank God I can finally see the fruits of his labours in this picture that is produced by 100% prop styling with no post production other than minor colour manipulation. How on earth did he arrange it in such detail without knocking bits over. Did he hang over the floor via suspension cable in a Tom Cruise style or glue each piece to an upright? Im not sure but the centre-fold broadsheet advert has gone straight up on the studio wall to join our collection of cosmic curios.
Photography by Jasper White

Mon 19th Jan: Do not adjust your set

Alex Cunningham became my fairy godmother in answering my wishes for a Peter Jensen Top Shop scallop dress and secured me one of the last treasures in the sale. I was so excited trying on my new present, it occurred to me what has Peter been up to since? To reaffirm my opinion of Peter as a genuine, considerate soul behind the stitching............the house of Jensen replied and sent these images of their new houses. In a collaboration with set designer Shona Heath the 3rd floor of Dover Street Market has been transformed with a mini exhibition space. The upside-down town has been built/hung to launch a special collection of 6 dresses designed for DSM.
What I love about Peter, is that he has strategically amassed a cult following and successful business in squirrel silence. Every inch of his ascendancy has been down to the top-notch craftsmanship and concept, consistently presented season after season. The work has spoken for itself and never needed any smokescreen "all singing,-all dancing" Pr and marketing. However, in saying that, there was a catwalk show literally choreographed with ice- skaters for S/S 2005. Just one of Peter's inventive ideas carried out subtlety and naturally for those with a discerning eye at the time. His talent is developing a high calibre of ingenuity in all aspects of the label, mixed with ridiculous hard graft. When I worked next door, I could never understand why he worked "ompa lumpa" style, seemingly never entering or leaving but just always being there. Now I not only see why but appreciate why. To single handedly turn out an intelligently idiosyncratic wearable line with equally meticulous shows takes DEDICATION. Massive respect due. You are the master. With a sense of humour to boot! Hooray!

Sunday 18th Jan: A Moonlanding & A Moonstomping

Is there anything Set Designer Helen Macintyre cannot make? Akin to the A-team's consistant reliability to inconcievably produce something out of nothing.......Helen can rustle up a cuckoo clock from some cardboard. In this instance its a space odyssey for the new video release from Esser "Work It Out". Helen says that even for her, this was a tricky task as it was flimed in Black Island Studios which was an intimidating size. She hand-dyed 65 meters of fabric (which was the surface of the terrian) in the sink which turned her studio a "pooey orange colour". Never mind that, I cant get over the actual space capsule and crafted interior. Its great to have these pics to really appreciate the attention to detail which is not so easy to see amongst all the other action in the final cut directed by Kinga Burza.
Since the moon landing, Esser have been planning a Moon Stomping, taking place tomorrow night at the new London Venue, The Lexington. As Im not exactly sure what this Ska dance is, Ive looked it up so here is the (un)official urban dictionary explanation of how to stomp:

" To moonstomp conventionally, it is suggested that you raise your left leg along with your left arm and produce a low kicking movement towards the ground in front while making a slow and gentle "punching the air" movement with your fist, sweeping it behind your right leg and doing the same movement symmetrically with your right leg and right arm and thus repeating, to the rhythm and tempo of the ska or dub song, until the end of the song "








Esser - Work It Out - Out 23rd Feb

Friday 16th Jan: Head In The Clouds

Last year I was joined for a week by Bournemouth Fashion student Jessica Dance a.k.a Jessica Rabbit - hence her blog name "Lapin Dance Hall". She has been fiendishly busy since this time, getting her work debuted in Amelia's Magazine and now an installation at Top Shop, Oxford Street. A big pat on the back for such fantastic initiative, having secured both of these projects purely from pitches. A lesson in the classic mantra " if you don't ask, you don't get ".
So although this latest venture is named "Head In The Clouds", it is quite obviously the antithesis of Jessica's sensibility! She has teamed up with graphic artist Robert Francis Muller under the guise of "Get Müllerd and Dance". Combining disciplines from his 2D expertise and her sewing penchant, their work to date has been experiments in typography and scale within set/prop design. Their emphasis is always to have fun (right on!) and create works that offer escapism whilst simultaneously conveying a narrative. To see the set-up, it is on the lower ground floor by the fitting rooms for the next 2 weeks. Or alternatively watch this great time lapse documentation of the process.
I used to work with a set design team who did over-night installations whilst the store was shut to the public. There was a specific turn of phrase attached to these sessions of "getting Top-Shop lips" (symptom - dry,chapped). This is the "Achilles Heel" / "Tennis Elbow" ailment aligned to said job, brought about by sleep deprivation combined with over exposure to air conditioning and general de-hydration. I wonder if "Get Müllerd and Dance" have discovered the scurvy of Philip Greene's particular inflicted affliction?






Head in the Clouds by Get Müllerd & Dance (TOPSHOP, OXFORD STREET)

Thurs 15th Jan: Loopy Ladies

Becoming part of the New Gen scheme this season is paying off in so many unimaginable ways and is really a life changing opportinity. Besides the bonus to my business, on a personal level I am loving getting to know the other designers and building a network. Its a very natural process and not a cliquey imprenitiable fash family that you may expect. I am particularly warming to the wooly side of the team - being both of the knitters Craig Lawerence and Cooperative Designs.
Annalisa Dunn from Cooperative has sent me this logo which is comprised of stills from thier recent film and catwalk show. She tells me that the new collection currently under construction in thier Hackney studio is inspired by thier ultimate muse and coincidentally thier director of photography, Amy Gwatkin.
Thier latest exciting news is the capsule collection comission at Henri Bendel for the store’s guest designer initiative. Henri Bendel New York Limited Edition Spring 2009 by Cooperative Designs is made up of dresses and cardigans in both skinny and oversize shapes in the team's trademark primary colors and stripes. For readers not able to nip down to 5th Av, NY, Coop are also available at Browns, London or online at Brittique. I recommend investing now in key early pieces of this label set to take over knitwear as we know it (never mind the fact they are bloody lush clothes).

Weds 14th Jan: Disguisery of Tailors

My night time shift is sweetened by switching from radio to the wonder of iplayer and the AMAZING fashion documentaries (that or I have to confess - Eddie Izzard stand-up, which makes my cheeks unbearably painful after an hour of constant chuckling).
One particular program I have to share is the Saville Row documentary focused on Oswald Boateng which crosses over with the current 30th Anniversary of 2-tone Ska. Oswald and his best friend Chris Cleverly grew up in Notting Hill, as they dubbed it "Thatchers Bastards" amongst the riots and fires at Carnival. Oswald's first foray into tailoring was straight cut suits, drainpipe trousers, Prince of Wales check and loafers for footwear. It was all about creating a positive image for themselves in the time of social change and racial inclusion. Oswald went one stage further in his dapper appeal by being known for his bright colours. HELLO! Chris described it as looking like "pouring acid down the middle of the road" when he walked along. I never really knew this history attatched to him so its a great piece of telly for this insight and also his interview with Suzy Menkes and Georgio Armani.
Ive put in here a personal favourite track, just because I love it on the dance floor!
But seriously ........there is a link..... ... Although The Beat made purely awesome tunes, there was a political message. Ranking Roger was on BBC6 on Saturday discussing their track "Stand down Margaret" which was probably the anthem to the movement I mentioned earlier. (Sorry for adding the wrong tune to fit the text, but just gotta love this one! Turn it up LOUD)

Tonight there is yet again another killer schedule of fash type telly, go check out....................

Tues 13th Jan: Pigeon Street

What is PlushPattern's Victoria Langdon up to? She's paying tribute to her nemesis in printing a triptych of pigeons. It is a known fact that in Vicky's presence you must immediately duck when a pigeon comes near as her arms involuntarily swing out at a 45 degree angle. She has a phobia of the urban vermin and has quite a physical reaction to the pest on encounters. So she has turned the irrational reaction round to produce a run of 35 prints based on Darwin's "Origin of the species". They are jazzy detailed birds, each with a neon beak and feet, complemented by an irredescent shiny foiled breast.
When not squeegeeing her screen, she is tip-tapping up trend analysis at The Future Laboratory. BBC "One Show" visited Future Lab for last evening's report on emerging "Homedulgence" and "Bleisure" activities. Here are screen grabs from the feature where I have proudly picked out her stripey scarf self in the background for the benefit of any other friends who want to fluff up (pigeon style) and be proud of her appearence.

Mon 12th Jan: Quote of the Day

I'm counting down the days till the Stephen Jones exhibition at the V&A and a welcome distraction came today with an in depth 3 page interview courtesy of hintmag.com


Anything else from the wild side of Stephen Jones?

There's such a freaky, eccentric side to every milliner on the planet. It goes with the territory. We drive people nuts. You have to be manic obsessive to do it.

It's like a cult.

Yes, there's a real cult aspect to making and wearing hats.

No idea what he means?!







(Thanks to Richard Toon for prompting paranoia by pointing out that the tone of my blogging is somewhat akin to the Blue Peter presenter that I look like. So I'm going to consciously review this situation and get more "street". I guess its one of those "telephone voice" scenarios. I just can't help myself. When writing I slip back into English lesson lingo.................watch this space, its gonna get colloquial .........well kinda)

Sun 11th Jan: Chloe Bell

Chloe Bell is an illustrator by training but multi-material creative by profession. Previously I have blogged the wonder of her hand sewn rainbow swimsuit and charmingly ethereal underwater photography to document it. The latest project named "Forced Flash" is embellished sweaters shot at some seemingly crazy interactive light show. I would love to know what the location is and how she found it but perhaps its best left a mystery to maintain the magic. (Model: Simon Jeal a.k.a Panda)

Sat 10th Jan: Quicksand

The BBC have announced the 15 winners of "Sound of 2009" with Le Roux entering in at No.5 just losing out to contemporary songstress Little Boots. 130 of Britain's music critics voted their predicted top up and coming acts for the forthcoming year. The other female singer/songwriters in the shortlist include Lady Ga Ga, VV Brown, Florence & The Machine.
Here are some behind the scenes snaps of Le Roux on set of her latest video for "Quicksand" which I have lifted from Nova Dando's blog. Nova styled the story which was shot by Kinga Burza. So this project was also a combination of other burgeoning female talent, all on with an exciting year lying ahead. The team are now working on the next video for future release "For The Kill". For "Quicksand" Nova put Elly in a mix of Margiela, Ksubi, House of Holland and her own leopard print creations which she made especially for the day.

Thurs 9th Jan: Brianciaga

Having discovered my multicolourtrianglegeometricallytwintransatlanticwestcoast answer to all things cosmically lush, it seems the fellow is equally refreshing. I contacted Brian to see if he could send over any pictures for my blog and damnit he got back in touch with the following. I harass lots of people whose work I like, to no avail. So when a good egg responds, I know I really am onto a winner and not a Veruca Salt. Thanks Brian! You can see Beyonce rocking some Brian Lichtenberg in her latest vid.


Mark Hunter (The Cobrasnake)


Dirk Mai


Beatrice Neumann

Weds 7th Jan: Jewellery Shapes

What an exciting surprise to find my A/W triangle necklace in V Magazine and the double whamy bonus is that is on one of my favourite new bands "Micachu & The Shapes" (http://www.myspace.com/micayomusic). I have seen Mica and her shapes (Mark & Raisa) perfrom a few times and can't wait to hear the debut album which is aptly going to be named "Jewellery". The original tracks recorded in her bedroom have been jazzed up by producer Matthew Herbert and the outcome is a pop allmagamation of sounds (grunge, hip hop, garage, grime, experimental percussion). If you haven't checked out their live performance yet, they are playing at The Barfly in Camden on Friday night.
The other band featured in V are "Telepathe" who are wearing a laminate necklace from the latest collection by RCA product designer Bethan Laura Wood. (http://www.woodlondon.co.uk/)

Tues 6th Jan 2009: New Year Greetings

The postman is still delivering beautiful New Year Wishes which is very exciting.
The 1st card here is from the team at SHOWstudio. It looks like an image from another era in its muted tones and timeless setting, not to mention the stunning headpiece. It is a shot by Set Designer Gideon Ponte taken at Abbey Road Studios during the Fashion Dj's project in the summer (the blues diva looking model being Jourdan Dunn).
The 2nd card here is a sparkling hand made collage from Heather Turnbull who joined me at the studio to help with the last collection. She is currently finishing up her own degree presentation in multi media textiles at Loughborough University.

Mon 5th Jan: Spadger Studio 54

Amy Gwatkin has gone pink. Formerly a lighter shade of violet. A new year, a new colour. Im loving it, can't wait to see it for real.