Sat 25th April: Profile Weekender - James Copeman - Part 2

So after Noah and The Whale etc. James went on to do more Super8 work, in particular this beauty for Icelandic artist Emiliana Torrini. Not only is it heavily infused with his graphics moving in and out of the action with speech bubbles and characters faces on inanimate objects, but.........he has drawn on the actual props............. snails. Her chorus of singing "do do do do do do do do" decorates the shells with primary paints (see my screengrabs). Although that is my favourite part there is also great use of animation in making her hair accessories morph shape like a Frida Kahlo portrait come alive.

The track is titled "Big Jump" with the lyric "take a big jump but your afraid to break some bones" hence the plaster cast she sports as seen here in one of Jame's snaps. His Polaroids actually feature in the film, telling the story of what is happening to Emiliana like an illustrated story book. This other Polaroid with a painting of Queen Elizabeth, is perhaps an indication of a particular fascination for James as she crops up again in "The Mystery Jets - Half In Love With Elizabeth" where he has taken that title quite literally. Its a hilarious narrative with the character ignoring his girlfriend in preference to an obsession with the Queen! From a Queenie look-a-likey to a real donkey..........check back tomorrow to see where one appears.............

Sat 25th April: Profile Weekender - James Copeman

When your duvet is all downy & soft and your pillow's all nestly & healing ........there is not much incentive to abandon your dream ship and face the reality of the day ahead (potentially eased with a drinkalby hot cup of tea delivered by your flatmate - HINT HINT). The only thing that gets me jump started and animated is turning on E4 Music to see the latest videos. There are 2 divides and both equally entertaining. Half are excellent and worthy of full attention and appreciation. The remaining half are so diabolical and tasteless its the perfect opportunity to vent frustrations on slagging off each detail of appalling fragment and finish.
So HOORAY to the folks that have wit and charm, currently producing the best calibre of the genre by confidently sticking their 2 fingers up at the homogeneous same old, same old format. Here is one such compatriot - James Copeman. Its been exactly one year since he signed to RSA/Black Dog and scooped the award for "Best New Director" at the very first MVA's in October. Copeman was competitively head hunted by Black Dog after his first flurry in directing on promos for Noah & The Whale and Laura Marling. Coming from a background in Motion-Graphics, the clips combine his own imagery drawn ontop of the film and splices of stop-frame animation. Although budgets were initially humble, the constraints were harnessed resulting in Lo-fi trails that look genuinely vintage and cutely charismatic. Its evident that time and consideration went into the art department for a strong stamp of personality in the realisation but complimenting the different musician/s. It is this trademark that alerted me to his work and I have asked him some questions to find out more..............and of course requested imagery from his own archive with the obligatory snap of workspace which I always like...........this is a great one to give insight into his retro-tinted-quasi-Hispanic-comical sensibility..........

Friday 24th April: Time for Tea

Yesterday was open day at Cube PR for the press to come and squizz the new collections, chomp on some cake and have a hot cup of cha, courtesy of "Time For Tea". Cube is located at the rear of a charming shop front on Lambs Conduit Street with the actual shop now open to pop-up enterprises with the current resident being Johnny ...........seen here setting up getting ready for the descending marauds of fashionistas. For one week he has decamped from his Shoreditch High Street HQ and lined the shop walls with silk embroidered wallpaper to set off his vintage fixtures and fittings. These props are for hire as part of his enterprise consisting of .........Event Production, Location Hire, Vintage Vehicles, Host/Acting/Modelling, Nightclubs, Cabaret compering and dj'n, .......or simply providing a weekend destination for cream teas or B&B for those that want to hang-it-out. Clearly being a "slasher" is not such a modern phenomenan after all!
If you do infact have Time For Tea, Johnny will be under his bunting brewing up some banging builders tea and cutting up quiche for one more day ..............and then returning home to.......

Open for Tea & Cake
Every Saturday
& Sunday

TIME FOR TEA
110 Shoreditch High St
E1 6JN

http://www.timefortea.org.uk

Weds 22 April: Alternative Miss World

Its back! Andrew Logan's Alternative Miss World Contest is making a return after 5 years and this year the theme is "The Elements". It all started in 1972 as one of Logan's parties in his studio in Hackney but on this particular occasion guests had to construct a costume specially for a cumulative competition. A couple of categories were contrived to give it a "Crufts" feel, judging the entrants on poise aswell as their coats! Andrew dressed in a half-half costume he found in junk shop which has gone on to serve as his trademark look as the host/hostess of the proceedings (with complementary makeup split perfectly half way up his face!). At this inaugural contest, David Hockney played judge with a plethora of discerning divas to follow in subsequent years including: Molly Parkin, Celia Birtwell, Zandra Rhodes, Gerlinde von Rosenberg, David Bailey, Angie Bowie, Barbara Hulanicki. That's just the judges! Derek Jarman made a Super 8 film in '73 and Mick Rock was resident photographer in the formative years. If you want to trawl the archive to uncover listings and appearances from the likes of John Maybury, Leigh Bowery, Divine.............then go to the excellent site which someone has painstakingly brought together: http://amw.andrewlogan.com/
Here are some snaps that I took when had a magical night and honour of being Bishi's guest at dinner with Zandra Rhodes a couple of years ago. This is Andrew with one of his artworks and also sporting one of his mirror mosaic accessories - a lip bowtie?! We sat either side of Andrew and took great delight in listening to his reminisces of first meeting Divine and tales of the the time and subsequent contests. As I have never been myself, I am so excited that the opportunity has come around again.........get your tickets now, its on the 2nd of May!

Mon 20th April: Work It 1st Birthday

It doesn't seem like a year ago since the madness and mayhem started vibrating the basement of Visions video under the 90's anthem jurisdiction of Work It.............but this weekend saw the cutting of the 1st year birthday cake and a night of unprecedented dancing to celebrate. I was sent a bottle of "Black Raspberry" from the guys at Belvedere to road test on a gathering of young discerning ladies before its UK launch. So I couldn't think of a better opportunity than sharing it with the gorgeous toastmistresses of the night who looked their typical resplendent selves in satin and crushed velvet finery. The brown bag wrapped beer bottles were put to one side to sip on some source and soda with a thumbs-up verdict all round. The night was billed with every dj that has played since the inception and we represented up front for the 30 min slot of our fave girl Teo Cruise (seen here in pics lent to me with kind permission of resident photographer: http://www.mistoffelees.co.uk/).
Here's to another year's success and whirlwind adventure to Johnny Dett, Tina Turnover and Think Twice.......................thanks to you guys for always treating us so well and I'm still SO upset that I spent NYE in bed with the flu and not styling out to Snoop with you...........

Sun 19th April: Nova Dando HQ

So it was now my turn to do some interior shots of this lushly decorated space in Hackney where both stylist Nova Dando and set designer Petra Stores work from. My time-keeping can occasionally be questionable but this visit was perhaps 2 years late I think! Nova has been looking after one of my mannequins since we took down our installation at VIVA hair salon which I had to retrieve. It looked like a set from Bladerunner with the mannequin reminiscent of a replicant buried amongst all the props and incredible clothes dotted around. This is the nearest thing I have seen to a NYC loft abode in London and I absolutely loved it. So much to look at! Its a crazy collection of artistic co-habitors that not only accumulate random pieces but produce them too. Nova was concerned it might look a mess but I was in heaven visually dissecting all the cosmic clutter and curios to find the jewels. And there were plenty of beautiful shiny magpie enticing gems on Nova's desk which she has been calling in for her new video project with The Gossip. No more info to divulge yet, but you can now check out one of her most recent collaborations with Charlie Le Mindu on the new Peaches video "Talk To Me" directed by Price James ................

Sat 18th April: Dog Days

Thank God the sun shone down today for me to schlep my counterfeit Chanel bags into Soho to do an installation at Kokon To Zai. As they are made from magazine pages I was mildly concerned about them disintegrating in the rain. Although I didn't actually wear the bag this time! (as it was originally made for my SHOWstudio film). To add to the archive piece, I have made a new mini rainbow version which I intended to go on a dog for the lady to have on the chain as a leash. But it seems that a dog mannequin is not as easy to find as one would think! So as it turns out she is wearing the bag on her shoulder but it still looks very nice. Its always good fun putting up a window, feeling like a goldfish in a bowl with people peering in to see whats going on.
Here are the two beautiful boys who were at KTZ today whom I will look up when I have time to report on what they do when not cutting a dash at the shop...............check back for deats.
Big shout out to the helpers that have come in for odd days and each contributed to a different section of the new bag's completion............Rosy Nicholas, Sasha Williams, Naomi Attwood, Thom Bird, Camille Jacquemart................and Bethany Winning for the donation of her Vogue back catalog for sabotage..........

To see the original film from Jan 08 :
http://www.showstudio.com/project/politicalfashion/blog/25918

Sat 18th April: Thom Bird

Thanks to illustrator Thom Bird for helping me out for a few days this week with the box production for my press day on the 23rd. I forget to catalogue the changing face of the walls of the studio so its a nice opportunity to see it from an objective view when visitors take snaps. Here are a couple from Thom's new blog ...................





above my desk and Andy Macgregors cuckoo clock above our door......

Friday 17th April: Eureka!

My motto is to live everyday as if it were your last...................burn the candle at both ends...................sleep when you die............
So when I get asked to do things, I rarely turn down an offer. I want to experience everything, even if it is terrifying and distinctly not my bag. So when I was approached to take part in an evening at The Design Museum I said yes without really knowing what it was. As it transpires.........it is a night of events in conjunction with the current Hussein Chalayan exhibition and it looks like its going to be really fascinating with a comprehensive list of happenings. Its very exciting to be billed alongside the following designers but also very scary because I have volunteered my services to run a workshop on how to make accessories! I like a good challenge!? So far I have managed to confront my social skill inadequacies by taking part in TV and college lectures, so I'm gonna give this my best shot. As long as Mr.Chalayan doesn't come and sit in on the proceedings to judge my glue-gun antics that is! Here is the official blurb for more constructive enlightenment on the goings on :


Inspired by the work of Hussein Chalayan, there will be a number of presentations, in various formats, of subtle and highly intuitive ideas from today's emerging designers with innovations in menswear, accessories, print, colour, knitting and tailoring. This is a chance to see their work – not just on display but also in action.

Highlights include a talk on intellectual property and how this is becoming increasingly relevant for today's designer, an open forum with the designers discussing their work and role in fashion and a special presentation by shoe designer Rosemary Wallin. Visitors can also participate in workshops led by accessories designer Fred Butler and be entertained by classical music and DJs throughout the night at the ground floor bar.

The designers participating in Eureka Night include:
Innovations in knits: Cooperative Designs, Derek Lawlor, & Sandra Backlund
Innovations in tailoring: Timothy Lee, Nicola Morgan
Innovations in fabric treatment: Kinga Malisz & Iris Van Herpen
Innovations in menswear: Katie Eary & James Long
Innovations in print and colour: Gemma Slack & Rohan Kale
Innovations in footwear: Rosemary Wallin
Innovations in accessories: Piers Atkinson, Maria Francesca Pepe, & Fred Butler


Here is the flyer which I'm mega chuffed with as my accessories are in the imagery and also here are two Chalayan flick books from past exhibitions and the current catalogue designed by ABAKE.

Thurs 16th April: Gravity's Rainbow

Thanks to stylist Thomas Sels for using my S/S ear piece in his story for the new issue of INDIE magazine with a title including the word RAINBOW! Double High Five!

(Photo: Babette Pauthier, Makeup: Megumi Matsuno.........who did the makeup for the original press shots!, Hair: Matsushita Hiroshi, Model: Lydia K)

Weds 15th April: Cake Face

Hillman Studio had a visit today from Pawel (a.k.a Miles Aldridge's assistant) with a bag of treats. Since Andy and him have just returned from shooting in Rome, it seems their taste for patisserie has got a bit flash, Fellini style. Hell yeah!
The 2 camps have been regularly combining forces on shoots for various Vogues and campaigns such as Mac and Lavazza. Some of these images are currently on show as part of Aldridge's exhibition "Doll Face" at the Hamiltons Gallery which accompanies the release of Aldridge's new coffee-table book. So this weekend, why not pop along to the show, pick up the the publication, put your feet up, pig out on some posh pastries and thumb your way through some signature slick saccharine set-ups by Hillman and other set designer Stevie Stewart..............................

Weds 15th April: Streetstyle Aesthetic

"its not just the clothes- its the people who wear them"

My newly discovered favourite streetstyle blog/website by photographer Wayne Tippetts who I met at the LFW tents. Not only is he instinctively snapping the most interesting looking fashion folk and snazzy civilians, but he adds to the sharp images with candid commentary. If possible Wayne asks the subject for their name and an anecdote to give context to his portraits. The titles are great too........like these two being "Brief Encounter" and "Fringe Benefits" (being stylist Liz Cardwell sporting a Cooperative hoody here!).
For anyone who has had their fill of The Sartoriliast or Facehunter formats...........check out http://www.streetstyleaesthetic.com........I'm hooked!

Mon 13th April: Easter Bonnet Pineapple Parade

If there was any one thing I made sure of doing this Easter, it was catching my local Easter Bonnet Parade. I nobley patronised the event as a mere spectator rather than a contestant, so as not to steal any thunder and clear the board on my 1st entry. How wrong could I be! Check this out! The kid who had a giant "egg-stinct" Archaeopteryx was out of control! Not only did the eyes and beak light up, but it also had a hidden sqwarking noise mechanism installed. There was an "Easter Party Liner" ship with spinning LED fans. Other bonnets of note was this fantastic hot egg complete with soldiers and the various pineapple theme variations in honour of the event's home - The Pineapple pub. Never again will I be so presumptious with my hat making skills, this is clearly an annual affair with a serious callibre of competitors. I love that insane English traditions are not dying out and still alive, well and crazy in the confines of Camden Town.

Sat 11th April: Super Nova

Last night I ran down to the Southbank to catch thecocknbullkid perform at the free afterparty for the Ether Peaches night. She rocked the ballroom of the The Royal Festival Hall to an audience of the city's jazzieslty coiffed and finest attired Circus tranny set. But she took to the stage in an outfit that showed them all up and carried the gauntlet of Peaches costume changes from the previous performance. The seamstress behind both act's stage outfits is the one and only Nova Dando. She really is a Super Duper Nova, making specialist pieces for many musicians alongside her own womenswear line, styling work and art direction. So I was thrilled when she showed me this on her camera phone! Last week she called in some of my archive pieces for the new La Roux video. Here you can see that she used my necklaces to full effect integrating the clothes to the set, the waistband on the chair and the cummerbund pinned deftly to Elly's t-shirt (teamed with a Fleet Ilya belt). You can also see some green in the background which is a giveaway of what is to come..............the set for the video was designed by Alun Davies and is apparently going to go under some lengthy ingenious CG..............can't wait to see the final edit!!!!

Friday 10th April: Profile: Sophie Gittins Part 2

Do you collect footwear paraphernalia? (vintage lasts etc?)

I have lots of vintage lasts (including one that has been turned into a clock), shoe horns and an old fashioned glass shoe repair sign. It’s nice to be surrounded with objects like that to act as a reminder that it’s an old-fashioned craft.



Who would be your dream client?

I would love to design for Thandie Newton as she doesn’t confine herself to one ‘look’ and isn’t afraid to experiment.



Do you collaborate with other designers?

I recently did some shoes for New Gen designer Hannah Marshall which was exciting. I also briefly dabbled with silversmithing when I was younger so in the future would love to work with a jewellery designer to come up with some interesting buckles and fastenings.



In your opinion who is doing the best footwear right now? (high end or high street?)

I think the craft that is going into high end footwear now is leaving the high street behind to some degree. The construction techniques which are being applied are failing to be copied successfully in detail to a high street shoe, which is a good thing for the Industry. In terms of designers, I love Pierre Hardy as every season he instills his shoes with originality and wit.





Thanks to Sophie for taking part in this interview and sending such lovely photos.............who needs theselby?!!!
For more information go to : http://www.sophiegittins.com/

Friday 10th April: Profile: Sophie Gittins

What were your favourite pair of shoes when you were a child?

Funnily enough my favourite shoes weren’t actually my own - I endlessly coveted my mum’s wedding shoes which were buttersoft pale cream/nude leather with plaited straps from Bally. She gave them to me as soon as I could fit into them and I save them for special occasions.


Are you are footwear fetishist like Imelda Marcus? (ie. do you have a large collection of your own?)

Not as much as people would probably expect. I have some beautiful shoes that I love but I don’t buy many pairs any more, I have to really want a pair and it has to coincide with an event so I can justify it to myself!



What is your favourite shoe design of all time?

There’s a shoe by Andre Perugia which was inspired by Georges Braque which takes the shape of a fish – it’s such a fantastic style even though it was designed in the 30s it still looks avant garde today. (I’ve attached a photo – he’s a genius!)



How do you design? Do you sketch first or play around with materials?

I tend to do a mixture of both – I’ve always sketched first but you can come up with more interesting shapes, folds and details when working with materials that it’s too hard to visualize when sketching.

Friday 10th April: Good Foot Friday

As the deadline for "Fashion Fringe" applications is looming (May 1st) I wanted to just announce the 1st year of a new Accessories section to the award, supported by Jimmy Choo's Tamara Mellon. The scheme set up by Colin McDowell is one of Britain's initiatives to find and fund new fashion design talent. Last year was the launch of the special shoe section to the sponsorship program. One of the finalists has just shown her 1st collection at fashion week and her name is being touted around the industry as the "one to watch". So I have followed in just those very foot steps and hunted down Sophie Gittins.

Having graduated from Cordwainers with 1st class honours and experience at Chloe, Sophie was shortlisted for the Fashion Fringe award and hyped by Vogue. Since this time she has put together her debut collection and collaborated with Hannah Marshall for her A/W show (which you can see in this snap from the factory).
The other 2 images are from Sophie's mainline of architecually accented feminine heels inspired by "Weiner Werkstatte". This also flows through in graphic print and even the name of each style taken from a different designer of the original movement. Each shoe is also embossed with a bumblebee logo chosen by Sophie as an emblem of achieving the impossible.............like all of us new designers embarking on entering the luxury market at a time when it is classed a discretionary purchase! But it looks like Sophie is on exactly the right path so this motto will no doubt ring true in time...................

I have asked her a few questions so these will follow in a couple more posts...............

Thurs 9th April: They're Nice

One of my favourite blogs (and I'm not alone!) comes out of the creative hub of HudsonBec who are a prolific duo that have instigated up a number of obscenely successful projects. Like two circus clowns juggling plates on sticks, these guys run an art direction studio, curate exhibitions, run workshops, videocasts, produce prints & publications and have an online shop with commissioned merchandise. Not content with this slasher balancing act, they earnestly set up "ifyoucould" - a platform for designers to come together and collaborate. Here I have opened a couple of pages of the new diary from the project, which features artwork by a different illustrator on each page. As usual, the visual concept is to answer the question "if you could ....." with the theme of this latest offering being ".......do anything tomorrow, what would it be?"
Well if I had to answer that question, I would like to invest £10 on the first hardcopy version of their blog, which they have put together to feature highlights from their past posts with additional in-depth interviews and articles. To accompany the book launch this week, the blog has been redesigned to house the archive. Here are Alex and Will at their Redchurch Street headquarters. I always plague people to send me an image of their workspace as an insight into their world, and unsurprisingly most practitioners are not always forthcoming! But luckily this conscientious couple answered my request so you can all see who the busy bees are behind the enterprise. Its very cute that their poster says "We've Been Good" .............. that's quite evident but they are probably too busy to see the unconscious irony of the words they chose to pin up!